Installing A Steering Wheel On Your Aluminum Boat: A Guide

Installing a steering wheel on an aluminium boat is a complex process, but it can be done. The first step is to calculate the length of the cable required by measuring the distance between the steering wheel and the outboard motor. This is divided into three parts: the distance from the steering wheel to the dashboard, the distance from the dashboard to the transom, and the distance from the transom to the outboard. After adding these measurements together, you need to subtract 10cm for every 90-degree bend in the cable path and then add 20.5cm to accommodate for cable routing. The next step is to fit the cables to the helm, which involves attaching the steering wheel, pushing the cable into the helm, locking the cable in place, and covering any exposed cable. The final step is to install the connection kit, which involves lubricating the cable and tilt tube, pushing the cable rod through the engine tilt tube, bolting the connection kit to the steering cable rod and the outboard, and confirming that everything is working correctly.

Calculating the length of the cable

Measure the Distance:

First, you need to measure the distance between the steering wheel and the outboard motor. This distance can be divided into three parts:

• Distance from the steering wheel to the dashboard (or dash): Measure from the center of the steering wheel to the dashboard directly in front of it.
• Distance from the dashboard to the transom: Measure from the dashboard to the transom, which is the vertical section at the back of the boat.
• Distance from the transom to the outboard: Measure from the transom to the outboard motor.

Calculate the Total Length:

Add these three measurements together to get the total length of the cable required. For example, if your measurements are 5 feet, 4 feet, and 6 feet, your total cable length would be 15 feet.

Account for 90-Degree Bends:

Now, consider any 90-degree bends in the cable's path. For each 90-degree bend, subtract 10 centimeters (or approximately 4 inches) from the total length. This adjustment is important because bends create tension and strain on the cable, causing it to wear down faster.

Allow for Slack and Routing:

To ensure you have enough slack in the cable to accommodate cable routing and other factors, add 20.5 centimeters (or approximately 8 inches) to your total length.

Convert to Feet (if needed):

If you measured in meters, convert the final length to feet by multiplying it by 3.28. This conversion is important because steering cables are typically available in lengths measured in feet.

Round to the Nearest Foot:

Finally, round your result to the nearest foot. For example, if your final measurement is 12.8 feet, you would round it up to 13 feet.

By following these steps, you can accurately determine the length of the cable needed for your boat's steering system. Remember to consider the number of 90-degree bends and make sure to include some extra length for slack to ensure smooth and efficient steering.

Fitting the cables to the helm

Temporarily attach the steering wheel:

First, secure the steering wheel to the helm temporarily. This makes it easier to fit the steering cables as the wheel provides a larger surface area to work with.

Push the steering cable into the helm:

Thread the steering cable through the hole in the helm and push it in until it catches. Then, turn the steering wheel to pull the cable through the helm and out the other side.

Lock the cable in place:

Once the cable is through the helm, use the provided bolt to lock it in place. Ensure that you tighten the bolt securely, but be careful not to overtighten it as this can damage the cable.

Cover any exposed cable:

It is important to cover any exposed cable with the supplied cover to prevent corrosion. Corrosion can cause reduced performance and even failure of the steering system, especially in saltwater environments. The cover will help protect the cable and ensure its longevity.

By following these steps, you will have successfully fitted the cables to the helm, establishing the connection between the steering wheel and the steering cables. This is a crucial step in ensuring a safe and functional steering system for your boat.

Steering wheel styles

When it comes to choosing a steering wheel for your aluminium boat, there are a few styles to choose from. The most common styles are the three-spoke and five-spoke designs, but there are also destroyer-type, bluewater, belloca, and polyurethane styles to consider.

Three-Spoke Stainless Steel Steering Wheels

These are among the most popular with saltwater boaters and are made by several companies, including Gemlux and Schmitt. They are available in 13-1/2” and 15-1/2” sizes, with or without an integrated assist knob. Most are made from solid, cast Grade 316 stainless steel, a top-quality material that is expensive but will outlast your boat.

Five-Spoke Destroyer-Type Wheels

These wheels were often provided as original equipment on saltwater boats. They are typically made from stamped Grade 304 stainless, making them a more affordable option than cast 316 stainless wheels. Some have moulded foam-rubber grips on the rim, providing a softer touch than bare stainless steel, but these do deteriorate over time.

Bluewater and Belloca Wheels

These premium steering wheels are made by Gemlux and are significantly more costly than other styles. The bluewater-style wheel is a stylized “two-spoke” that is often installed as original equipment on large center consoles. The belloca wheel is a three-spoke design with added detail for a striking, high-end aesthetic.

Three-Spoke Polyurethane Steering Wheels

These are typically found on freshwater boats like wake and ski boats, bass boats, and pontoon boats. They usually have aluminium spokes and a polyurethane rim, with styling reminiscent of car steering wheels. While they tend to look sharp and feel good, they won't stand up to sun, moisture, and salt like stainless steel wheels. Over time, they tend to fade, crack, or tear, especially if stored uncovered.

Other Styles

Other styles include teak wood, carbon fibre, and vinyl-wrapped steering wheels.

Choosing the right shaft nut

• Universal Fit: Boat steering wheels typically have a universal fit, which means that the majority of them are designed to fit onto a tapered 3/4" shaft. This standard size is used by most boat helms, which is the steering mechanism that the wheel connects to.
• Locking Nut: With the exception of stainless steel three-spoke steering wheels, most boat steering wheels use a locking nut to securely hold the wheel onto the shaft. Reusing the old shaft nut with your new wheel is possible if it's still in good condition.
• Nut Size: The size of the shaft nut depends on the type of steering system your boat has. For mechanical steering systems, such as cable steering, a 1/2" (0.5") nut is commonly used. On the other hand, hydraulic and power steering systems usually require a larger nut, typically a 5/8" (0.625") nut. If you have a Verado steering system, you'll need an even larger 12mm nut.
• Tightening the Nut: When tightening the shaft nut, use a socket wrench to achieve the correct torque. Be careful not to overtighten the nut, as this can damage the steering cable. Once tightened, cover the shaft and nut with a decorative plastic or stainless steel cap for a finished look.
• Corrosion Protection: To prevent corrosion, especially in saltwater environments, apply a coat of Duralac to the bolts before tightening them. Corrosion can weaken the bolts over time and compromise the integrity of your steering system.
• Woodruff Key: Remember to install the Woodruff key, a half-moon-shaped metal piece, into the slot on the helm shaft. This key engages with notches on the shaft and the wheel, ensuring the wheel stays in place and doesn't spin freely.
• Replacement Options: If you encounter a frozen or damaged shaft nut, you may need to replace it. Contact the manufacturer or a marine supply store to source the correct size and type of shaft nut for your specific steering system.

By choosing the right shaft nut and following the provided instructions, you can ensure a safe and smooth steering experience for your aluminium boat.

Steering wheel removal

Removing a steering wheel from an aluminium boat is a relatively simple process, but it may require some force. Here is a step-by-step guide:

First, remove the centre cap, the nut underneath, and the washer behind it. You may need to use a gear puller to do this. Then, put the nut back on the helm, ensuring it sticks out just above the threads to protect the helm. Place one leg behind the steering wheel and use your arm to apply pressure to the other side. Hit the nut with a hammer, and the wheel should pop off without damaging the helm. Corrosion may make the wheel more difficult to remove, so if you suspect this is an issue, spray some marine-grade corrosion inhibitor between the wheel and wheel stud and allow it to sit overnight before trying again.

If you have an aluminium wheel on a stainless shaft, be prepared to buy a new wheel. You may need to drill holes and use a flywheel puller to remove the wheel without damaging the shaft. Alternatively, you can use a rubber mallet from underneath to try and dislodge the wheel.

Once the wheel is removed, you can install a new one. First, ensure the wheel shaft is clean and free of corrosion. Wipe the area with a soft cloth and a small amount of corrosion inhibitor, then apply a thin layer of synthetic or food-grade grease. Slide the collar onto the shaft, followed by the key wheel insert and the shaft nut, tightening the nut as much as possible. Finally, slide the new wheel into position, using a rubber strap wrench for optimal leverage to ensure it is secure.

Frequently asked questions