Boat Shoes: What Questions Should You Ask?

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes or top-siders, are typically made of canvas or leather and have non-marking rubber soles designed for use on a boat. They are designed with sailing functionality in mind, with siping patterns cut into the soles to provide grip on wet surfaces. They are traditionally worn without socks, as this helps keep the wearer's feet dry. Boat shoes were invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry, who was inspired by his dog's ability to run easily over ice without slipping. Today, they are worn by both men and women, not just for boating but also as casual footwear.

Boat shoes' history

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes or top-siders, were invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry of New Haven, Connecticut. Sperry was an avid sailor who noticed that his leather shoes would slip while on the deck of a ship. One winter's day, he observed his cocker spaniel, Prince, running easily over ice without slipping. Upon closer inspection, he noticed tiny grooves on the dog's paws, which he realised were the key to anti-slip success.

Inspired by his dog's solid performance on the ice, Sperry took a penknife and cut grooves, or 'siping', into the soles of his shoes to improve his grip while at sea. Sperry's discovery was not entirely original, however. The process of cutting grooves into the soles of shoes had already been invented and patented in 1923 by John F. Sipe. Nevertheless, Sperry's application of this process to sailor shoes was novel, and his design successfully increased the traction of shoes on a boat's surface.

Sperry's early boat shoes had black soles, which left unsightly marks on the deck of boats. To address this issue, he switched to white rubber soles, and the modern boat shoe was born. Sperry introduced his new design, the Sperry Top-Sider, in 1935. The shoes featured mid-to-dark-brown leather uppers and a white rubber sole, with the bottoms cut in a trademark herringbone pattern. After this final modification, Sperry's shoes gained momentum and became popular among sailors and boaters, although they remained a niche product.

In 1939, the U.S. Navy negotiated a deal to manufacture Top-Siders for its sailors. Sperry eventually sold his business to the U.S. Rubber Company, which began marketing Sperry Top-Siders throughout America. In 1979, the company was sold again, this time to Stride Rite. By the 1970s, boat shoes had become casual footwear in coastal areas of the U.S., Canada, several European countries, China, and Australia.

In the 1980s, boat shoes reached trendy status when they were featured in the influential "The Official Preppy Handbook". From there, their popularity exploded, and they became a staple of East Coast preppy style in the summer. Boat shoes experienced a revival in the late 2000s and continue to be a popular fashion choice for both men and women around the world.

Boat shoes' characteristics

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes or top-siders, are typically made from canvas or leather and have non-marking rubber soles designed for use on a boat. They are characterised by a siping pattern cut into the soles to provide grip on a wet deck, and the leather construction, along with the application of oil, is designed to repel water. The stitching is highly durable, and the shoes are traditionally worn without socks.

The modern boat shoe was invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry of New Haven, Connecticut, after he noticed his dog's ability to run easily over ice without slipping. Inspired by the natural cracks and grooves on his dog's paws, Sperry cut siping into his shoes' soles, creating a shoe appropriate for boating. Sperry's company, Sperry Top-Sider, remains a popular brand of boat shoe today.

Boat shoes have a unique lacing system that wraps around the heel of the shoe. This ensures that the wearer's heel doesn't slip out of the shoe when moving about the boat. The laces themselves are typically made from leather for durability and waterproofing.

The toe box of a boat shoe uses moccasin-style stitching, where the tongue of the shoe is joined to the upper via stitching around the front of the shoe. This makes the toe box more comfortable when wearing the shoes barefoot, as it reduces rubbing and chafing against the toes.

Boat shoes are designed to be worn without socks, so they are some of the most comfortable shoes available. The leather will require a break-in period, during which it will become more pliable and start to mould to the wearer's feet.

While boat shoes are known for adding a touch of class to an outfit, they are not dress shoes and should not be substituted for formal footwear. Boat shoes are more elegant than sneakers or sandals and can instantly elevate an outfit. They are considered a summer dress shoe and are perfect for pairing with a nice linen suit or light-wash jeans.

Boat shoes vs. deck shoes

Boat shoes and deck shoes are often used interchangeably, and today, the concept is more about style than the traditional function of the shoe. However, there are some differences between the two.

History

Boat shoes originated in the United States in the 1930s and were popularized by the brand Sperry Top-Sider. Deck shoes, on the other hand, have British origins and were initially associated with sailors in the British Navy. They were sometimes even a status symbol, suggesting ownership of a boat and, therefore, wealth.

Sole Construction

Boat shoes typically feature a non-marking rubber sole with a siping pattern. The non-marking sole is traditionally white, but modern versions often feature dark soles. "Siping" refers to the razor-like cuts on the sole that improve traction on wet surfaces. Deck shoes may have a traditional rubber sole or a combination of rubber and leather.

Lacing System

Boat shoes usually have a 360-degree lacing system, with leather laces threaded through eyelets that go all the way around the shoe. This design provides a customised fit and better stability. Deck shoes often have a simpler two-eyelet lacing system or may even be slip-on, with elastic or bungee laces for convenience.

Aesthetics

Boat shoes are often associated with a more casual and sporty look. They typically feature leather or suede uppers with a moccasin-like construction and decorative stitching around the toe. Deck shoes, on the other hand, may have a slightly more formal appearance, with cleaner lines and a simpler overall design. Men's and women's deck shoes are often similar in style, often combining as unisex footwear.

Modern Usage

Modern versions of boat and deck shoes take the traditional elements and use them as stylistic features rather than functional ones. The choice between boat shoes and deck shoes ultimately comes down to personal preference and the specific features and style that suit the wearer's needs.

Boat shoes vs. loafers

Boat shoes and loafers are two distinctive styles of casual footwear that cater to various tastes and occasions. While they share some similarities, they also have several key differences.

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes, were originally designed in 1935 to help sailors grip the deck during slippery conditions. They feature a lace-up design, siped rubber soles, and a stitched seam. The laces typically wrap around the heel of the shoe, and the shoes are made with a canvas or leather upper and a rubber sole for durability. Boat shoes are a casual wear option that can be dressed up or down, but they are not suitable for formal events or to be worn with suits.

Loafers, on the other hand, are laceless slip-on shoes with a sturdy flat heel. They are designed to be easily slipped on and off and can be crafted with leather or woven materials. Loafers offer a broader spectrum of style options, from casual to formal, depending on the material. Casual loafers are usually made from suede, canvas, or woven leather, while dressier ones are made from sleek, shiny leather. Loafers are more versatile in terms of their uses and can be worn in situations where a boat shoe would be appropriate, as well as more formal settings.

Both boat shoes and loafers share a timeless aesthetic and versatility, seamlessly transitioning from casual to semi-formal settings. They are also known for their breathability, making them suitable for warm weather. In terms of comfort, boat shoes are designed to be worn without socks and are very comfortable once the leather is broken in. Loafers also work well with or without socks, depending on the formality of the occasion.

When deciding between boat shoes and loafers, consider your individual style preferences and intended use. Boat shoes are ideal for water-related activities and embody a nautical charm, while loafers offer more style options and can be worn year-round.

Boat shoes' care and maintenance

Boat shoes are typically made of canvas or leather and have rubber soles. They are designed to be durable and to withstand wet weather conditions. However, they do need to be cared for and maintained, especially since they are often exposed to saltwater and the sun. Here are some tips to help you keep your boat shoes in good condition:

Leather Care for Smooth Leather Boat Shoes:

• Use a water-based cream shoe polish regularly to protect the leather from the elements. Avoid hard waxes as they can make the shoes look too formal and clog the stitching.
• Stay away from liquid and quick-drying polishes that contain alcohol or silicone.

Leather Care for Suede and Nubuck Leather Boat Shoes:

• Clean suede boat shoes by sprinkling and massaging cornmeal onto the surface. Leave it overnight, then brush off the cornmeal and use a brass bristle suede brush to realign the grain.
• For nubuck leather, use a nubuck brush to restore its lustre.
• Remove spots using a pencil eraser and a vinegar and water solution.
• For oil or fat spots, apply rubber cement, let it dry, and then rub it off.

Canvas and Other Cloth-Based Boat Shoe Care:

Hand wash canvas boat shoes with soap instead of putting them in the washing machine, as this may damage the shoes.

What to Do With Wet Boat Shoes:

• Dry your shoes at room temperature and avoid direct heat or sunlight to prevent cracking.
• Stuff them with newspaper to help retain their shape.
• Brush them when dry and apply shoe cream if needed.

Daily Care:

• Always use a shoe horn to put on your boat shoes to maintain their shape.
• Keep them free of dirt, dust, and salt deposits using a brush.
• Store them carefully using shoe trees to help retain their shape.
• Keep an eye on the soles and get them repaired when necessary.

Frequently asked questions