Unfreezing A Boat Engine: Quick And Easy Methods

Boat engines can freeze in temperatures of 28-32°F (-2-0°C) or lower, causing severe damage. To unfreeze a boat engine, you must first identify the cause of the issue. If it's a simple grease problem, applying heat may solve it. If not, you'll need to dismantle the steering system, degrease, clean, and possibly replace the tube and steering cable. To prevent your boat engine from freezing, it's crucial to winterize your engine, store your boat in a covered area, maintain proper battery care, and keep the engine compartment dry.

Remove the engine from the water

Removing the boat from the water is the first step in preventing a boat motor from freezing. This step is crucial as it allows you to work on the engine and take the necessary precautions to avoid freezing. Here is a detailed guide on how to remove the engine from the water:

Firstly, bring a vehicle with a trailer to a boat ramp area and back the trailer down the ramp. Ensure that the trailer is securely positioned on the ramp and that the vehicle is parked in a safe area. Then, carefully move the boat from the seawater to the boat ramp and gently place it on the trailer. Make sure the boat is properly centred and sits securely on the trailer.

Next, you will need to secure the boat to the trailer. Use appropriate fastenings, such as straps or ropes, to tie down the boat properly. Ensure that all connections are tight and double-check that the boat is stable and won't shift during transport. Once the boat is securely fastened, you can start hauling it out of the water with the vehicle. Drive the vehicle slowly and carefully up the ramp, ensuring that the boat remains stable.

Finally, move the vehicle and the boat to a flat, open area where you will be able to work on the engine. Choose a workspace that is well-ventilated and provides you with enough room to manoeuvre around the boat comfortably. Remember to engage the parking brake in your vehicle and place chocks around the trailer wheels to prevent any accidental movement.

By following these steps, you will be able to safely and effectively remove the boat engine from the water, allowing you to proceed with the necessary maintenance and winterization procedures to prevent freezing. Always exercise caution and follow safety protocols when working with boats and vehicles.

Drain the engine of water

Draining the engine of water is an important step in preventing your boat motor from freezing. This process can help to protect the engine from cracking and other general boat motor damage caused by freezing temperatures. Here is a step-by-step guide to draining the engine of water:

Firstly, trim the outboard motor to its maximum angle, which is typically around 65 degrees. This will allow any trapped water to be released. Let the water drain out onto the ground, and ensure that all the water is released by allowing the engine to sit at this angle for a few minutes.

Next, wipe around the engine and engine bay with a sponge to remove any remaining water. Be sure to wipe down any flat horizontal surfaces where water may be trapped. This step is important because any remaining water can freeze and cause cracks in the engine's lower unit.

If your boat has an inboard motor, it is important to note that it is already out of the seawater. Therefore, you only need to focus on draining the engine and engine bay of water. However, if you have an outboard motor, it is recommended to remove the boat engine from the water before draining it of water. This can be done by backing a vehicle with a trailer down a boat ramp and moving the boat onto the trailer. Secure the boat properly before hauling it out of the water and moving it to a flat work area.

After ensuring that the engine is thoroughly drained of water, you can proceed to the next steps of stabilizing the fuel, changing the gear lube oil, and so on. By following these steps, you can help protect your boat engine from freezing and ensure a smooth boating experience during cold weather.

Stabilise the fuel

To stabilise the fuel in your boat engine, you must first fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel until it is 99% full. This will ensure there is enough space for the fuel stabiliser. Next, pour the fuel stabiliser into the fuel tank. The general ratio is 1 ounce of fuel stabiliser for every 2.5 gallons of fuel. Once you have added the stabiliser, start the boat motor and let it run at idle, approximately 1,000 rpm, for 5 minutes. This will allow the stabiliser to mix into the entire fuel system. Finally, turn off the boat motor. The whole process should take around 7 minutes.

Stabilising the fuel will prevent the fuel from oxidising and forming a gum-like substance in the fuel tank and fuel lines. It will also prevent corrosion of the fuel tank.

Change the gear lube oil

Changing the gear lube oil is an important step in maintaining your boat engine, especially if you're preparing for cold weather. Here's a detailed guide on how to change the gear lube oil:

Step 1: Prepare the Work Area

Place a large piece of cardboard under the engine to catch any drips or leaks. Place an oil pan or catch pan on top of the cardboard to collect the old gear lube oil.

Step 2: Loosen the Drain Plugs

Using a flathead screwdriver, loosen the bottom plug and then the top plug on the gear lube tank. Some motor models have two upper vent plugs, so ensure you loosen both of them. Do not remove the plugs yet.

Step 3: Drain the Old Gear Lube Oil

Trim the motor down into the catch pan, ensuring it is level so that gravity can assist with the drainage. Now, remove the plugs, starting with the bottom one and working your way up. Allow the old gear lube oil to drain completely. This may take a few minutes.

Step 4: Inspect the Drained Oil and Plugs

While waiting for the oil to drain, check the plugs for any metal shavings. Magnetic plugs can attract and hold these shavings. Also, inspect the oil for any signs of water contamination. If the oil has a milky or creamy appearance, it indicates water has entered the gearcase. In this case, consult a professional technician as it may be due to a failed propshaft seal.

Step 5: Attach the Lower Unit Gear Pump

Once the oil has drained to a very slow drip (you won't be able to get 100% of the oil out), it's time to attach the Lower Unit Gear Pump. Screw it into the lower plug. Filling the lower unit from the top down may trap air inside the components, so be cautious.

Step 6: Refill with New Gear Lube Oil

Pour new gear lube oil into the lower unit through the Lower Unit Gear Pump. The most common type of gear lube is 80W-90 (SAE 90), but always check with the manufacturer for the recommended type. Continue pumping until the oil starts to drip from the upper vent plug. This indicates that the tank is full.

Step 7: Secure the Plugs and Clean Up

Return the plugs to their places, starting with the top one to create a slight vacuum. When you remove the pump and replace the bottom plug, only a small amount of oil should drip out. Be quick to avoid losing too much oil. Finally, clean up the area and dispose of the waste responsibly.

Additional Tips:

• It is recommended to change the gear lube oil annually or every 100 hours of use, whichever comes first.
• Changing the gear lube oil is a simple task that most boat owners can do themselves.
• Always consult your owner's manual for specific instructions related to your boat motor.
• Gear lube oil should be changed along with the engine oil to prepare for winter or before the boating season.

By following these steps, you can ensure your boat engine is well-maintained and protected from potential damage caused by old or contaminated gear lube oil.

Clean the engine

To clean the engine, you will need to first remove the steering cable. This can be a time-consuming process, so be prepared to spend some time on it. Start by loosening the nuts with a socket wrench or a similar tool. If you're having trouble turning the nuts, try using kerosene to loosen them up.

Once the nuts are loose, you can pull the cable out. You may need to strike the other end of the cable with a hammer a few times or heat up the tube with a welding torch to soften the grease and allow the cable to slide out more easily.

With the steering cable removed, you can now diagnose the problem. Try turning the helm. If the cable moves in and out freely and the motor's pivot tube can turn freely, the resistance is likely coming from the tilt tube. If the helm doesn't turn freely, the cable may have an extreme rust problem, and you may need to replace it.

If the problem is mostly grease-related, you can clean the steering cable's rod with a carburettor cleaner. Spray the cleaner on the rod, focusing on the portions with hardened grease, and wipe it down with a clean rag. For stubborn grease, you can use a wire brush or even a razor blade to scrape it off.

Next, clean the tilt tube by spraying carburettor cleaner inside and pushing a small, slightly smaller-diameter-than-the-tube rag through it with a rod or stick. Repeat this process three to four times for a thorough clean.

Finally, regrease the rod with lithium grease and put it back into the tube.

Frequently asked questions