Putting A Four Winns Boat In Neutral: Easy Steps

If you are having trouble shifting your 87 Four Winns boat into neutral, there are a few potential issues that could be causing this problem. Firstly, check the shift cable as it may be stretched out or need adjustment. If the issue is not with the shift cable, then it could be the shift assist/interrupter switch that needs replacement. Another potential issue could be with the Electronic Shift Assist (ESA) module or its associated switches, wiring, or lower shift cable. To diagnose the problem, you can perform a water test, which will help determine if the issue is with the cable adjustment or something more serious. Additionally, you can test the ESA by moving the shift actuator and observing whether the engine stumbles. If the engine does not stumble, then the issue could be with the ESA itself, the switch, or the wiring.

Troubleshooting a non-neutral 1998 Four Winns Horizon

Troubleshooting a non-neutral 1987 Four Winns Horizon can be a challenging task, but with a systematic approach, you can identify and resolve the issue. Here is a comprehensive guide to help you through the process:

Understanding the Issue:

The first step is to understand the problem you are facing with your 1987 Four Winns Horizon boat. From your description, it seems that the boat is having difficulty shifting into neutral, which is a common issue with older boats. This can be frustrating, especially when you need to manoeuvre in tight spaces or maintain control while docking.

Initial Checks:

Before diving into more complex troubleshooting, it is essential to perform some initial checks to ensure that the issue is not caused by something simple. Here are a few things to verify:

• Battery: Ensure that the battery is fully charged and in good condition. A weak or faulty battery can cause various electrical issues, including problems with shifting.
• Connections: Check all battery connections to ensure they are clean, tight, and free of corrosion. Loose or corroded connections can interrupt the flow of power and affect the boat's systems.
• Cables and Fuses: Inspect the starter cables and fuses for any signs of damage or wear. A faulty cable or blown fuse can prevent the necessary power from reaching the starting system.

Neutral Safety Switch:

If the initial checks do not reveal any obvious issues, the problem may lie with the neutral safety switch. This switch is designed to prevent the engine from starting when the boat is not in neutral, and it can sometimes malfunction, causing the boat to get stuck in gear or preventing it from shifting into neutral. Here are some steps to troubleshoot the neutral safety switch:

• Jump the Switch: With the help of a qualified marine mechanic, you can attempt to jump the two yellow/red leads coming from the shifter assembly. If the boat starts, it confirms that the neutral safety switch is faulty and needs replacement.
• Visual Inspection: Visually inspect the neutral safety switch for any signs of damage or corrosion. Corroded or damaged connections can interrupt the signal, causing the switch to malfunction.
• Wiring: Check the wiring harness connected to the neutral safety switch for any signs of damage or loose connections. Ensure that the wires are securely connected to the switch and the shifter assembly.

Slave Solenoid:

If the issue persists and the neutral safety switch seems to be functioning correctly, the problem may lie with the slave solenoid. The slave solenoid plays a crucial role in the starting circuit, and a malfunction can prevent the engine from cranking. Here are some steps to troubleshoot the slave solenoid:

• Visual Inspection: Start by visually inspecting the slave solenoid for any signs of damage or corrosion. Look for burnt or melted components, as this could indicate a failure.
• Testing with a Test Light: Using a test light, you can check for power and ground at the slave solenoid terminals. Connect the test light to a good ground, then touch the probe to each terminal while someone turns the key to the start position. If the test light illuminates specific terminals, it indicates proper power and ground connections.
• Jumping the Solenoid: If the slave solenoid is faulty, you may be able to temporarily bypass it to get the boat running. Consult a marine mechanic on how to properly jump the solenoid by connecting specific terminals.

Starter Solenoid:

If the slave solenoid checks out fine, the issue may lie with the starter solenoid itself. The starter solenoid is responsible for sending power to the starter motor when the ignition key is turned. Here are some steps to troubleshoot the starter solenoid:

• Visual Inspection: Inspect the starter solenoid for any signs of damage or corrosion. Look for burnt or melted components, as this could indicate a failure.
• Testing with a Test Light: Using a test light, check for power at the starter solenoid terminals. Connect the test light to a good ground, then touch the probe to terminal B. If the test light illuminates, proceed to check the starter motor.
• Starter Motor: If the starter solenoid seems to be functioning correctly, the issue may lie with the starter motor itself. You may need to remove the starter and have it professionally tested or replaced.

Seeking Professional Help:

If you are uncomfortable performing these troubleshooting steps or unable to identify the cause of the issue, it is best to seek the assistance of a qualified marine mechanic. They will have the experience and expertise to efficiently diagnose and resolve the problem. Additionally, they can provide guidance on any necessary repairs or part replacements.

By following these comprehensive troubleshooting steps, you can systematically identify and address the issue with your 1987 Four Winns Horizon boat's inability to shift into neutral. Remember to practice safety and consult professionals whenever you have doubts or concerns.

Adjusting the shift cable on a 1994 Four Winns

Next, remove the outdrive. You will see a small metal bell crank (lever) at the drive bell housing where the cable comes through. At the end of the black plastic slide attached to the cable, you will see a small bolt holding a teardrop-shaped nut. Remove the bolt so you can spin the nut in or out.

Now, move to the boat and centre the outdrive shift cable at its midpoint of travel, clamping it gently so it stays in place. Back at the outdrive, spin the teardrop-shaped nut in or out until the plastic slide has the bell crank in a perfectly perpendicular position to the bell housing face. Replace and tighten the bolt.

You should now be able to adjust the engine-side cables to achieve full shifting in both forward and reverse.

Testing the ESA module on a 1992 Four Winns 5.0L OMC

• Ensure the boat is in the water and running.
• Locate the shift actuator and the microswitch.
• Move the shift actuator.
• Observe if the engine "stumbles" briefly, reducing torque on the dogs, allowing you to shift out of gear.
• If the engine stumbles, the ESA is functioning correctly. If not, it could be a problem with the ESA, the wiring, or the switch.

You can also test the ESA by manually tripping the switch that sends a signal to the ESA. If the engine does not stall or hesitate, this indicates a problem with the ESA, the switch, or the output of the ESA not being connected to the negative side of the coil.

It is important to note that the ESA is an epoxy-potted electronic device, and you will need an OMC service manual to correctly test and replace it if necessary.

Checking the anti-syphon valve on a 1993 Four Winns OMC 5.0 Cobra

To check the anti-syphon valve on a 1993 Four Winns OMC 5.0 Cobra, you will need to locate the valve and understand its function and components. The anti-syphon valve is typically located near the fuel tank, and its purpose is to prevent fuel from flowing back towards the tank, which could lead to a fire hazard.

• Locate the Anti-Syphon Valve: The anti-syphon valve is usually found near the fuel tank. On an I/O (inboard/outboard) boat, you may need to lift the floor boards over the tank to access it. The valve is often a 90-degree fitting with a spring and check ball inside.
• Understand Valve Function: The anti-syphon valve allows fuel to flow past the ball bearing when the engine is running, as the fuel pump suction overcomes the spring force. When the engine is off, the spring and ball bearing prevent fuel from flowing out of the tank and back into the lines.
• Check for Clogs or Corrosion: If the valve gets clogged or corroded, the ball bearing may stick, preventing adequate fuel flow. Check for any signs of blockage or corrosion that could impede the movement of the ball bearing.
• Test the Valve: You can test the valve by attempting to blow through it. If you are able to blow through it, the valve is likely faulty and needs replacement. However, a functioning valve should not allow airflow in either direction.
• Inspect Fuel Tank Vent: In addition to checking the anti-syphon valve, also inspect the fuel tank vent for any obstructions. The vent is typically located on the side or rear of the boat near the filler, and it allows air to enter the tank as fuel is used.
• Replace if Necessary: If the anti-syphon valve is clogged, corroded, or faulty, it should be replaced. You can find replacement valves of various sizes online or at marine supply stores.

By following these steps, you can ensure that the anti-syphon valve on your 1993 Four Winns OMC 5.0 Cobra is functioning properly, maintaining fuel flow and preventing potential safety hazards.

Testing the neutral safety switch on a 1998 Four Winns Horizon

Locate the slave solenoid on the engine, which should have four wires connected to it. Using a test light, check if there is power going through the neutral safety switch by touching the test light to terminal C of the slave solenoid and then to terminal A. If the test light illuminates, the neutral safety switch is functioning. If not, the problem may be a bad ground for the slave solenoid, a bad connection at the main engine harness plug, or a faulty neutral safety switch.

If you are unable to access the neutral safety switch for testing, you can try a temporary solution by using a test lead on the slave solenoid to jump between terminals A and B or A and C, which should allow the engine to crank. Ensure that the ignition switch is in the run position.

If you hear a click from the engine but no cranking of the starter, the issue may lie with the slave solenoid or the starter solenoid itself. You can test this by touching the test light to terminal A of the starter solenoid; if it lights up, there may be a problem with the starter, and it may need to be repaired or replaced.

It is important to note that these tests assume a certain level of mechanical knowledge and skill. If you are unsure about any of the steps or procedures, it is recommended to consult a professional marine mechanic for assistance.

Frequently asked questions