Winterizing Your 225 Hp Engine: Step-By-Step Guide

Winterising a 225 boat engine is a crucial step in protecting your boat during the winter months, especially if you live in an area with freezing temperatures. The process involves several steps to ensure the engine is ready for the next boating season. This includes draining the engine of water, applying corrosion protection, changing the engine oil and filters, stabilising the fuel system, and more. The specific steps may vary depending on the type of engine and the climate, but the goal is always to prevent freeze-damage, corrosion, and other issues that can occur during the boat's inactivity.

Drain the engine of water

To drain the engine of water, you must first identify the type of engine in your boat. Inboard and sterndrive engines have different draining mechanisms compared to outboard motors. For inboard and sterndrive engines, you will need to locate the petcocks and open them to drain the water. If water fails to drain freely, the petcock may be clogged and will need to be unblocked. Don't forget to drain the sea strainer, seacock body, and water lift muffler as well.

Outboard motors, on the other hand, require a different approach. After a day's use, it is recommended to tilt the motor all the way down to let the water drain. Starting the motor for a few seconds will also blow out any remaining water from the motor and the pee hose. If you are storing the boat for the winter, it is crucial to ensure that all water is drained to prevent freezing and potential engine damage.

One method to drain an outboard motor is to use a hose fitting rigged on a gallon jug filled with RV antifreeze. By using ear muffs on the intake and connecting it to a hose, you can run the engine until it warms up and the antifreeze is sucked up by the impeller, flushing out any remaining water. This method ensures that the engine and related plumbing are protected from freezing temperatures.

Additionally, for both inboard and outboard engines, it is important to check the engine manual for specific instructions on draining procedures. Following the manufacturer's guidelines will help ensure a thorough drain and prevent potential damage caused by freezing water.

Apply corrosion protection

To protect your boat engine from corrosion, it is important to keep it clean. Start with a good external boat engine cleaner, followed by a silicone spray to protect the metal surfaces.

If you're preparing your boat for long-term storage, it is recommended to protect the internal surfaces of the engine with fogging oils for carbureted boats or EFI fogging oil.

A good way to prevent corrosion is to use a ceramic spray coat or wax. This hydrophobic barrier can help seal the boat's surface and prevent salt particles from coming into direct contact with the finishes on your boat.

Another way to protect your boat from saltwater damage and rust is to use corrosion-resistant or corrosion-free products and materials whenever possible. For example, you can use stainless steel, aluminium, or plastics instead of other materials that are more susceptible to corrosion.

When choosing accessories for your boat, consider their corrosion resistance and durability. Investing in high-quality, corrosion-resistant boating products can help prevent corrosion and extend the life of your boat.

• Yamaha's external engine cleaner and degreaser is designed to remove dirt, oil, and grease from your motor. It is also safe to use on most rubber, plastic, and painted metal surfaces.
• Yamaha's silicone protectant and lubricant is a versatile spray that encapsulates all the different exposed metal parts of your engine and protects them from rusting. It also provides protection for neoprene, rubber, and other surfaces.
• Yamaha's rust and corrosion protection spray, also known as Yamashield, provides premium protection against rust and corrosion using a combination of solvents, lubricants, and waxes. This waterproof spray can be used on all engine components, not just the metal parts.
• Yamaha's engine fogging oil is highly recommended for outboard winterization, as it provides long-term protection by keeping engine parts lubricated during storage.

Change the oil and oil filter

Changing the oil and oil filter is an essential step in winterising a 225-boat engine. This is because impurities and moisture in the oil can cause damage to the engine over the winter. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to do this:

First, run the engine for a few minutes to warm up the oil. This will lower the oil's viscosity and allow it to pick up any impurities. Next, shut off the engine and change the oil, replacing it with new oil of the type recommended by the manufacturer. Also, replace the oil filter. Now, restart the engine and run it for about a minute to circulate the fresh oil to the internal parts of the engine. While the engine is running, check to make sure that the oil filter isn't leaking.

It is also important to note that the oil in four-stroke engines should be drained and replaced, whereas two-stroke engines can be left unchanged as their lubrication comes from the oil in the fuel.

Additionally, consider using a flushing oil or a flushing additive during the oil change to help remove more contaminants.

By changing the oil and oil filter, you will prevent residual acids and moisture from corroding vital engine parts, ensuring that your 225-boat engine remains in good condition throughout the winter and is ready for use when the warmer months arrive.

Check the gearbox

To check the gearbox of a 225 boat engine, you will need to change the oil. This is because, over time, the oil in the gearbox collects foreign materials and moisture that can be harmful to the engine. If left in the gearbox for an extended period, this moisture could rust or corrode metal surfaces inside, and may also freeze and cause damage to the internals.

To change the oil, you will need to drain the old oil and replace it with new oil. Here is a step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Drain the Old Oil

Place an oil pan under the engine to collect the old oil. Locate the drain plug and remove it to allow the oil to drain out. Make sure to place the oil pan in a secure location to avoid spills.

Step 2: Clean the Drain Plug

Once the oil has finished draining, replace the drain plug. It is important to clean the drain plug and ensure there is a good seal before reinstalling it. Check the owner's manual for specific instructions on how to do this.

Step 3: Fill the Gearbox with New Oil

Locate the oil filler cap or port on the gearbox. Using a funnel, pour new oil into the gearbox until it reaches the recommended level. Make sure to use the type of oil recommended in the owner's manual.

Step 4: Check for Leaks

Once you have finished filling the gearbox with new oil, check for any leaks around the drain plug or filler cap. Wipe up any excess oil and ensure that all fittings are secure.

Step 5: Dispose of the Old Oil Properly

Used oil should be disposed of properly at a designated location or recycling centre. Do not pour it down the drain or into the environment, as it can be harmful to wildlife and contaminate water sources.

By following these steps, you can help ensure that your 225 boat engine's gearbox is in good condition and protected from corrosion and freezing during the winter months.

Drain the raw water system

Most boat engines use a raw water cooling system, which needs to be drained before leaving the boat for winter. This is done by first closing the water inlet valve, or sea cock, and disconnecting a hose from the circulating pump (unless there is a dedicated tap or plug).

The next step is to refill the system with a strong solution of fresh antifreeze. This is done by running the engine to fully circulate the new solution. Simply draining the system is unlikely to remove all the water inside, which may then freeze and cause damage over the winter.

If your boat is in the water, you will need to close the intake seacock and remove the intake hose from it. Submerge the end of the hose in a bucket of (environmentally safe) antifreeze and run the engine until the antifreeze comes out of the exhaust ports.

It is important to bring the engine up to operating temperature before running antifreeze through it, as otherwise, the thermostat will block the flow to some cooling passages until the engine is up to temperature.

If your engine is indirectly cooled, there is a simple way to protect the passageways of the cooling system. Prepare a bucket of fresh water mixed with some cheap glycol-based antifreeze, mixed to a ratio of about 75% water and 25% antifreeze. Start the engine and slowly tip the bucket of antifreeze mix into the raw water strainer, which feeds the raw water pump. The mix will then be pumped throughout the raw water system and out through the exhaust.

A simple bucket system can be set up under the exhaust pipe outlet to catch the excess product so it can be disposed of responsibly. This leaves antifreeze/anticorrosion liquid in all the nooks and crannies of the raw water and exhaust system.

Frequently asked questions