Helena Frye
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe that was first released in 1989 under the model name 'P550'. The shoe was designed by Steven Smith and was created as a low-top version of the company's New Balance Pride 650. The New Balance 550 features a sleek design with a high-quality upper made of smooth and perforated leather, a breathable mesh lining, and a rubber sole. The shoe has a two-layered Ortholite insole that provides comfort and excellent arch support, making it a great choice for those with flat feet. While the New Balance 550 was not initially successful when it was first launched, it has since made a comeback in the 2020s due to the vintage and retro trends.
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What You'll Learn
The New Balance 550's design and aesthetics
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe that was first introduced in 1989 as a budget shoe, retailing for $45. It was originally known as the New Balance P550 Oxford. The shoe was designed by Steven Smith as a low-top version of the company's New Balance Pride 650. The 550 was created to improve upon the New Balance 480, addressing its lack of breathability. To achieve this, smooth leather was used for the upper, while perforated profile panels and lightweight mesh were used for the base.
The New Balance 550 features a moulded heel structure for improved stability and lockdown, and an updated traction pattern and layout on the sole for better responsiveness. Additionally, the shoe boasts a very thick sole with EVA foam. In terms of aesthetics, the 550 showcases eye-catching colourways and signature New Balance logos, paying homage to old-school basketball style with a modern twist. The low-top silhouette highlights the '90s details, making it a versatile addition to one's wardrobe.
The shoe was reintroduced in 2020 through a collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore, helmed by Teddy Santis, who spotted the low-top in an old photo and worked to bring it back. Since its re-release, the New Balance 550 has become a staple in the fashion world, with its versatility allowing for a range of styling options. From pairing with wide-cut black pants and a fleece to keeping it casual with track pants and a hoodie, the 550s can be dressed up or down to suit various looks.
In April 2024, a golf variant of the New Balance 550 was released, featuring a waterproof microfiber leather upper, the brand's NDurance spikeless rubber outsole, and a golf ball on the tongue instead of a basketball. This new iteration showcases the brand's ability to adapt their signature shoe to different sports while maintaining the iconic design elements that make the New Balance 550 stand out.
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The shoe's comfort and support
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe that was first released in 1989. It was brought back in 2020 when Aimé Leon Dore collaborated with the company. The shoe features a thick sole with EVA foam, a moulded heel structure, and an updated traction pattern.
The 550's comfort and support features are impressive. The shoe has a two-layered Ortholite insole that is 8.8 mm thick, which is significantly thicker than the average insole. This thickness provides excellent arch support and makes the shoe a great option for people with flat feet. The Ortholite insole also has moisture-wicking properties, keeping feet dry and odour-free for extended periods. The 550's heel drop is 15.7 mm, which is steeper than average, providing the sensation of an elevated heel. The shoe's midsole is on the narrower side, measuring only 102 mm in width, and it has a firm cushioning. The 550's stack height is 33.7 mm at the heel and 18.7 mm at the forefoot, which is slightly higher than average, providing a comfortable and supportive ride.
The New Balance 550's structure is well-designed, with a torsional rigidity score of 4 out of 5, indicating that it effectively prevents excessive lateral movements that could disrupt balance. The heel counter is generously padded and stiff, earning another score of 4 out of 5 for its ability to withstand pressure. This feature helps stabilise the foot during the stride, contributing to the shoe's overall stable underfoot sensation. However, the heel counter could be improved to provide a more secure lockdown to prevent the heel from sliding within the shoe during movement.
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Durability and performance
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe that was first released in 1989. It was originally known as the New Balance P550 Oxford and was priced at $45. The shoe was not very successful when it was first launched, but it made a comeback in the 2020s due to the vintage and retro trend.
The New Balance 550 is designed to provide improved stability and lockdown. It features a moulded structure around the heel and an updated traction pattern and layout, which provide better responsiveness. The shoe also has a very thick sole with EVA foam, which offers impact protection and a comfortable ride.
The 550’s two-layered Ortholite insole is 8.8 mm thick, which is significantly thicker than the average. This provides excellent arch support and makes the shoe a great choice for those with flat feet. The insole also has moisture-wicking properties, which help keep feet dry and odour-free for extended periods.
The 550’s outsole has a durometer reading of 85 HC, which is in line with the average. This hardness level typically offers a good balance of grip and durability. Tests indicate that the 550’s outsole can be expected to last at least 400 miles of use before showing any major signs of wear and tear.
While the New Balance 550 is durable and provides good performance, it may not be suitable for outdoor use as it does not offer the same level of ground feel and cushioning as other shoes. The midsole is also narrower than average, which may be a drawback for some users. However, the shoe's firm midsole and stack height of 33.7 mm at the heel provide effective landing dampening and a comfortable, supportive ride.
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The New Balance 550's history
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe produced by New Balance. The shoe was originally known as the New Balance P550 Oxford and was primarily a budget shoe. It was first released in 1989, priced at $45. The 550 was created by legendary sneaker designer Steven Smith as a low-top version of the company's New Balance Pride 650.
The New Balance 550 was designed to improve on the New Balance 480, which was the brand's first basketball shoe, released in 1983. The 480 featured smooth leather panels across the upper, a padded mid-top collar, and a rubber sole with EVA foam. However, it suffered from breathability issues. To address this, the 550 featured perforated profile panels and a lightweight mesh base, in addition to the smooth leather upper. The heel of the 550 also had a moulded structure to improve stability and lockdown, and the sole used an updated traction pattern to provide better responsiveness.
The New Balance 550 was not a success when it was first launched. It fell into obscurity, and the company even struggled to find old stock when they wanted to buy back used pairs. However, the shoe was brought back in 2020 through a collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore and their creative director, Teddy Santis. The reissue was the first collaboration between the two entities and helped to build huge hype for the model. The modern-day story of the New Balance 550 cannot be recounted without mentioning Santis, who randomly stumbled upon an image of the shoe sometime in 2018. Aimé Leon Dore's "International Friendship Through Basketball" collection was not only the first reissue of the 1989 shoes but also the first collaboration between the two brands.
The New Balance 550 has since become a popular shoe, enjoyed by social media influencers, New York City's downtown crowd, and casual consumers alike. The shoe offers comfort and versatility, with an easy-to-clean leather upper and perforations for ventilation. The suede editions, in particular, are noted for their durability when properly cared for.
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How the shoe compares to other basketball shoes
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe that was first released in 1989 as a budget shoe. It was brought back in 2020 through a collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore. While the 550 does not feature modern technology, it delivers lasting comfort and versatility. The shoe has a firm midsole, a thick sole with EVA foam, and a two-layered Ortholite insole that provides excellent arch support and moisture-wicking properties. The outsole offers a good balance of grip and durability.
Compared to other basketball shoes, the New Balance 550 shines in its utility and versatility. Its clean and straightforward style makes it adaptable, both on the court and on the city streets. While it may not offer the latest features, the 550 provides a comfortable and stable experience. The shoe's structure helps mitigate excessive lateral movements, enhancing the sense of balance. The padded heel counter contributes to the overall stability and prevents the foot from rolling laterally.
In terms of cushioning, the New Balance 550's firm midsole may not be as plush as other options on the market, such as the New Balance 9060. However, the 550's stack height is slightly higher than average, providing effective impact protection and a comfortable ride. The shoe's underfoot sensation is stable, and its slim profile makes it feel nimble and responsive.
When it comes to durability, the New Balance 550 is in line with the average sneaker. Lab tests indicate that the shoe can be expected to last at least 400 miles of use before showing significant signs of wear and tear. This durability, combined with its stability and comfort, makes the 550 a reliable choice for basketball players.
Overall, the New Balance 550 basketball shoe offers a combination of stability, comfort, and durability. While it may not have the modern features of other basketball shoes, it excels in its versatility and adaptable design. The 550 is a reliable option for players seeking a well-structured and comfortable shoe that delivers a supportive and responsive ride.
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Frequently asked questions
The New Balance 550 was originally released in 1989 as a basketball shoe.
The original name of the model was "P550" or "New Balance P550 Oxford".
The New Balance 550 is known for its retro and vintage style, with a sleek and minimalist design. It has a firm midsole and a thick Ortholite insole, providing excellent arch support and comfort.
The New Balance 550 was designed by legendary sneaker architect Steven Smith.
