Boat Shoes: Cultural Appropriation Or Appreciation?

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes or top-siders, are typically made of canvas or leather with rubber soles designed for use on a boat. They were invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry, who was inspired by his dog's ability to run over ice without slipping. Since the 1970s, they have become casual footwear in coastal areas worldwide and are widely popular across age groups and genders. They are also seen as a status symbol, with boat ownership associated with wealth. However, with their resurgence in fashion, particularly among Gen Z, the question arises: are boat shoes cultural appropriation?

Boat shoes as a status symbol

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes or top-siders, are typically made of canvas or leather with rubber soles designed to provide grip on boats. They were invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry, who was inspired by his dog's ability to run easily over ice without slipping. Since the 1970s, they have become casual footwear in coastal areas of many countries, including the US, UK, and China.

Boat shoes are often seen as a status symbol, associated with wealth and boat ownership. They are particularly popular among the preppy fashion crowd and are a common component of the East Coast preppy style. The shoes can be found on college campuses across America and are worn by people of all ages and genders.

The perception of boat shoes as a status symbol is reinforced by their association with old money and the American Dream. In the 1980s, they gained trendy status after being featured in "The Official Preppy Handbook." This popularity has persisted, with boat shoes experiencing a revival in recent seasons through runway shows and social media platforms like TikTok.

The boat shoe's status as a fashion symbol is also influenced by its practicality. Its non-slip rubber sole and hand-sewn design make it a functional and comfortable choice for maritime activities and everyday wear. This versatility allows wearers to style the shoes in various ways, from casual beach trips to business casual environments.

While boat shoes are widely popular, it's important to note that the concept of cultural appropriation in footwear, as discussed by some writers, may be relevant to consider when examining the broader implications of fashion choices.

Boat shoes' cultural and contextual history

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes or top-siders, were invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry of New Haven, Connecticut. Sperry was an avid sailor who struggled with maintaining a firm foothold on the slippery decks of his boat. One winter day, he noticed his dog, a cocker spaniel named Prince, had no trouble running across ice. Upon closer inspection, Sperry realised that the natural cracks and grooves on Prince's paws formed a herringbone-like pattern that gave him grip on the ice.

Inspired by his dog's solid performance, Sperry decided to cut similar patterns on the soles of his shoes to improve his grip while at sea. Adapting the design for human footwear, boat shoe soles look flat at first but once flexed, the grooves open up to increase traction. This action provides grip in slippery situations much better than other rubber-soled footwear.

Sperry's discovery already had a name—siping, after John Sipe, who had patented the concept in 1923. Sperry used the same process, and his design was successful in increasing the traction of shoes on a boat's surface. However, his black-soled boat shoes left unsightly marks on the boat's deck. To address this, Sperry tested a few options and found that white-soled shoes didn't leave any visible marks. So, in 1935, he introduced the Sperry Top-Sider shoe with mid-to-dark-brown leather uppers and a white rubber sole, with the bottoms cut in a trademark herringbone pattern. After this final modification, his shoes gained momentum and became the next big trend among sailors and boaters.

In 1939, the U.S. Navy recognised the benefit of the new shoes and negotiated a deal to manufacture Top-Siders for its sailors. Eventually, Paul Sperry sold his business to the U.S. Rubber Company, which started to market Sperry Top-Siders throughout America under the Sperry brand.

Since the 1970s, boat shoes have become casual footwear in coastal areas of many countries, including the Netherlands, the United States, Canada, Argentina, Australia, China, France, Italy, Portugal, Spain, Germany, and the United Kingdom. They are widely popular across different age groups, from elementary to college students, and are worn by both men and women. Boat shoes are also seen as a status symbol, as boat ownership is associated with wealth.

In the 1980s, boat shoes became a fashion trend that returned in the late 2000s. They were featured in the influential "The Official Preppy Handbook" by Lisa Birnbach, which identified them as an essential part of preppy styles. Boat shoes are typically associated with East Coast preppy style in the summer and are considered a classic piece of footwear. They are known for their moccasin-style toe, 360-degree lacing system, and white, non-marking soles.

Today, boat shoes remain a popular fashion choice, with brands like Sebago, Sperry Top-Siders, and Eastland leading the market. They are commonly worn with socks and pants or shorts, although traditionally, they were worn without socks.

Boat shoes' utility for sailors

Boat shoes were originally designed for sailors and boaters to prevent slipping on boat decks. The practical, non-slip rubber sole and unique hand-sewn upper design drew attention from all types of shoe wearers.

The nautical look is always in fashion, and boat shoes are now popular both on the high street and on the water. The classic leather boat shoe continues to dominate, especially in the cruising world. The design includes important elements such as good grip, non-marking soles, non-corrosive metal eyelets, and premium-quality soft leather.

Boat shoes need to be comfortable enough to wear for long periods, but also rugged enough to withstand rough treatment. Most importantly, they need to be safe. While many boat shoes claim to be skid and slip-resistant, not all perform well in slippery conditions.

For sailors and boaters, it is important to choose a shoe with good traction that will prevent slipping on wet and oily surfaces. Some boat shoes have white soles to avoid scuffing on white or teak decks. Additionally, a proper boat shoe should not be made of leather or suede, as they can get damaged by saltwater. Instead, look for shoes made from materials that dry quickly and are resistant to saltwater.

Boat shoes offer both functionality and aesthetics for sailors and non-sailors alike. They are a classic casual shoe trend that provides style, comfort, and safety for a variety of activities, both on and off the boat.

Boat shoes' mass popularity

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes or top-siders, were invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry of New Haven, Connecticut. Sperry created the shoes after noticing his dog's ability to maintain grip on ice without slipping. By cutting a distinctive siping pattern into rubber soles, Sperry was able to replicate the grooves on his dog's paws, creating a shoe with a no-slip, non-marking grip ideal for boating and deck activities.

While boat shoes were originally designed for sailors, they have since become a popular fashion item. In the 1980s, they became trendy after being featured in "The Official Preppy Handbook" and have been a staple of East Coast preppy style during the summer months ever since. The shoes are often associated with a certain level of wealth or status, as boat ownership is typically linked to affluence.

The mass popularity of boat shoes can be attributed to several factors. Firstly, they are highly versatile and can be styled in various ways. They can be dressed up or down, worn with socks or without, and paired with pants, shorts, or dresses. Additionally, boat shoes are comfortable and functional, providing good traction and water repellency, making them suitable for boating and other deck activities.

The shoes have also gained traction in popular culture, with celebrities and fashion influencers sporting them both on and off the runway. For example, they have been featured on the Miu Miu runway and have become popular among "old money style"-obsessed Gen Zs on TikTok. Additionally, the resurgence of low-profile shoes in menswear, such as ballet flats and Mary Janes, has likely contributed to the comeback of boat shoes.

The mass popularity of boat shoes has also been influenced by their accessibility and affordability. They are widely available at various price points, from high-end designer labels like Dior and Fendi to more affordable options from brands like Sperry and Sebago. Additionally, many schools with uniform requirements allow boat shoes since they are made in part or entirely of leather, further contributing to their widespread adoption.

Today, boat shoes are worn by people of all ages and genders and can be found in coastal areas worldwide, from elementary school students to college campuses and beyond. While they may have originated as a utilitarian shoe for sailors, boat shoes have undoubtedly reached mass popularity and become a staple in casual footwear.

Boat shoes' fashion revival

Boat shoes are back in style, but did they ever really go away?

The boat shoe has become a staple of East Coast preppy style, particularly in the summer months. Its rich history and newfound versatility are being recognised once more, and it seems that this time, they are here to stay.

A Rich History

The boat shoe was invented in 1935 by American Paul A. Sperry of New Haven, Connecticut. Sperry noticed that his dog, Prince, had no issue climbing up slippery icy cliffs. After closer inspection, he noticed tiny grooves in the paws. To mimic this on a shoe, Sperry used a penknife to cut the bottom of a rubber outsole shoe to provide additional traction. This process, called Siping, was patented in 1923. Sperry's first shoes had black soles, which left skid marks on boats, so he switched to white rubber soles, and the boat shoe as we know it was born.

A Symbol of Wealth

Boat shoes are partially seen as a status symbol, as boat ownership is associated with wealth. They have become popular casual footwear in coastal areas around the world, including the US, Canada, China, France, and the UK. They are also widely worn from elementary to college age, often as part of a school uniform.

Fashion Revival

Boat shoes have been creeping their way back into fashion world consciousness in recent seasons, via the runways of Miu Miu and JW Anderson, and making headway among "old money style"-obsessed Gen Zs on TikTok.

So, how to style boat shoes today? Firstly, make sure you have a pair you love. There are numerous ways to style them, but a good starting point is to reimagine the preppy summer uniform. Pair boat shoes with shorts that have a wider thigh opening, and preferably, pleats. For the top, avoid the popped collar, and instead opt for a knit polo or a camp collar shirt, worn open over a ribbed tank.

For a more elegant, sartorial look, try pairing boat shoes with white trousers and a horizontal striped tee, tied off with a leather braided belt. Elevate the look with a navy blazer with gold-tone buttons.

Boat shoes also work well with jeans. Try dark wash jeans, a white or light blue linen shirt, and a tan linen blazer for a refined yet relaxed look.

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