Kristian Ferrell
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe that was first released in 1989 under the model name 'P550'. The shoe was designed by Steven Smith and was created as a low-top version of the company's New Balance Pride 650. The shoe features a sleek design with a high-quality upper made of smooth and perforated leather, a breathable mesh lining, and a rubber sole. The New Balance 550 was not initially popular, but it has seen a resurgence in recent years due to the vintage and retro trends. Collaborations with Aimé Leon Dore and New York clothing shop founder Teddy Santis have also helped bring the shoe back into the spotlight.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Original release date | 1989 |
| Original price | $44.99-$45 |
| Original name | P550/New Balance P550 Oxford |
| Upper material | Smooth and perforated leather |
| Base material | Lightweight mesh |
| Sole material | Rubber |
| Heel | Molded structure for stability and lockdown |
| Traction | Updated pattern and layout |
| Insole | EVA foam |
| Variants | Golf (released in April 2024) |
| Colors | Red, Green, Grey, Navy Blue, Natural Green, White Navy Red |
| Width size | D (standard) |
| Designer | Steven Smith |
| Recent collaborations | Aimé Leon Dore, Teddy Santis |
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What You'll Learn
The New Balance 550's original release
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe produced by New Balance that was first released in 1989. Designed by Steven Smith, the shoe was created as a low-top version of the company's New Balance Pride 650. Originally known as the New Balance P550 Oxford, it was priced at $45 and designed to improve on the New Balance 480.
The upper of the shoe was made with smooth leather, while the base featured perforated profile panels and lightweight mesh to make it more breathable—a common complaint with the 480. The heel had a moulded structure to improve stability and lockdown, and the sole used an updated traction pattern to provide better responsiveness. Additionally, the shoe featured a very thick sole with EVA foam.
The New Balance 550 was not successful when it was first released. In fact, it was so obscure that the company had to buy used pairs and find old sketches to recreate the shoe for its re-release in 2020. This time, the shoe was brought back through a collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore, the New York-based brand founded by Teddy Santis. Santis sought to revive the model after coming across it in a Japanese catalog.
Since its re-release, the New Balance 550 has seen several collaborations and colourways. Chicago creative Joseph Robinson, aka Joe Freshgoods, released his iteration of the late '80s basketball sneaker, featuring a cream canvas upper with hairy suede overlays and an aged yellow midsole. Klutch founder Rich Paul also collaborated with New Balance to release a pair with an off-white perforated leather upper and navy detailing.
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The shoe's design and features
The New Balance 550 was first introduced in 1989 as a basketball shoe. It was designed by Steven Smith as a low-top version of the New Balance Pride 650. The shoe's upper is made from smooth and perforated leather, with breathable mesh lining and a rubber sole. This combination of materials, including leather and mesh, gives the sneaker a durable and stable structure while also providing some stretch and flexibility. The heel has a moulded structure, enhancing stability and lockdown, and the sole features an updated traction pattern for improved responsiveness. Additionally, the shoe is characterised by its thick sole with EVA foam.
The New Balance 550's design includes a two-colour, high-profile outsole and a minimalist NB logo, with the ""N" logo receiving a raised finish. The upper is predominantly white leather, with one or two contrasting colours on the midsole, creating a popular two-tone design from the 80s and 90s. The shoe's aesthetic has been described as sleek and vintage, with a chunky design that has contributed to its recent revival in the 2020s.
The original release of the New Balance 550 failed to achieve significant popularity or hype. However, more than 30 years later, the silhouette has experienced a resurgence due to the vintage and retro trends. The comeback can be largely attributed to sneaker enthusiasts' revival of vintage sneaker trends, as well as the collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore, a New York clothing shop founded by Teddy Santis. This collaboration introduced new colourways, including red, green, grey, navy blue, natural green, and white navy red.
In addition to the original basketball shoe design, a golf variant of the New Balance 550 was released in April 2024. This version features a waterproof microfiber leather upper, spikeless rubber outsole, and a golf ball on the tongue instead of a basketball. The shoe is available in width size D (standard) and tends to fall true to size, although those with wider feet may consider going half a size up.
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The 550's popularity and collaborations
The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe that was first released in 1989. Designed by Steven Smith, the shoe was originally known as the New Balance P550 Oxford and was a budget shoe retailing for $45. The 550 was not successful when it first launched and was largely forgotten.
In 2020, Aimé Leon Dore decided to collaborate with New Balance to bring back the 550. This collaboration is credited with bringing the 550 back to life and making it one of the most coveted sneakers of the year. The shoe became popular for its entirely "new" design, as it hadn't been released since its original run in 1989. The 550's resurgence led to a full assortment of 550 collaborations with the NYC-based brand, as well as with other names like Auralee, Rich Paul, Joe Freshgoods, BEAMS, and Comme des Garcons. The collaborations with Aimé Leon Dore are still considered to be the best of the 550 collaborations.
The most popular 550 colorways tend to be the classic white-on-tone combinations. White or off-white leathers, paired with a secondary accent color, seem to go with every outfit. A brown version of the 550 is also a favorite, though it is rare to see. The 550 is also available in a variety of other colorways, such as red and black, which was named the 8th hottest product of 2023 Q3 by LYST.
In April 2024, a golf variant of the New Balance 550 was released, featuring a waterproof microfiber leather upper, the company's NDurance spikeless rubber outsole, and a golf ball on the tongue instead of a basketball.
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Comparison to other New Balance shoes
The New Balance 550 is a retro-inspired sneaker that draws on the design of basketball shoes from the 1980s and 1990s. It has a low-top design with a leather upper and a durable rubber outsole. The shoe offers excellent cushioning and support, making it a comfortable choice for everyday wear.
When compared to other New Balance shoes, the 550 stands out for its bold and vibrant colours, as well as its retro design. In contrast, the New Balance 990 and 993 offer a more classic style, while the 327 takes a modern approach to the traditional running shoe. The 992 is designed for superior performance and support, making it a top pick for athletes and runners.
The New Balance 2002R is another classic shoe that offers a well-balanced mix of stiffness and cushioning. The upper is made of real suede, providing durability, and the shoe features an unusually thick tongue that enhances its fit and delivers comfort. However, the 2002R falls short in terms of breathability, receiving only a 2 out of 5 rating for ventilation.
The New Balance 574 is praised for its extraordinary comfort, with a reliable cushion and a generously padded interior that make it suitable for prolonged walks. Its classic design is also versatile, allowing it to match a wide range of styles.
Overall, the New Balance 550 is a stylish and comfortable option for everyday wear, with a unique retro design that sets it apart from other shoes in the New Balance range.
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The 550's price and availability
The New Balance 550 is indeed a basketball shoe, first released in 1989 as a budget shoe with a launch price of $45. The shoe was brought back in 2020 through a collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore.
Today, the New Balance 550 is available for purchase at Foot Locker, with prices ranging from $49.99 to $110. The shoe is offered in a variety of colors, including white/green, white/black, and blue/beige/white, and is available for men, women, and boys.
Foot Locker often has sales on the New Balance 550, with prices dropping as low as $49.99 from $110 or $95. The shoe typically receives positive reviews, with an average rating of 4 out of 5 stars.
In addition to the classic basketball shoe, New Balance also released a golf variant in April 2024. This version features a waterproof microfiber leather upper, a spikeless rubber outsole, and a golf ball on the tongue instead of a basketball. The price of the golf variant is not readily available.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, the New Balance 550 was originally released in 1989 as a basketball shoe.
The upper of the New Balance 550 is made from high-quality, smooth and perforated leather, and the base is made from lightweight mesh to make it more breathable. The shoe also has a very thick sole with EVA foam, and an updated traction pattern on the sole to provide better responsiveness.
The New Balance 550 was originally known as the P550 or the New Balance P550 Oxford.
The New Balance 550 was not very popular when it was first released. However, it gained popularity in the 2020s due to the vintage and retro trend.
