Ayrton Oneill
Hydraulic steering systems are common on work and pleasure vessels up to 70 feet in length. They are also used on bass boats, pontoon boats, power catamarans and inboard cruisers without engine-driven power assist. This article will focus on how to work on bass boat hydraulic steering lines, including how to replace the cables and nuts, and how to install an autopilot.
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What You'll Learn
Switching from mechanical to hydraulic steering
Hydraulic steering systems are becoming increasingly popular for bass boats. They can reduce both maintenance and steering effort, but they are more expensive than mechanical steering systems.
If you're planning to switch your bass boat's steering from mechanical to hydraulic, it's important to first read the instructions on the manual in detail so that you know what supplies and tools you'll need. You'll then need to remove the steering wheel and the original mounting base. Separate the steering cable from the engine and tape two hydraulic hoses to it. Now, use the cable to reach the hoses to the helm. Mark a 3-inch diameter hole required for the helm unit and cut it. Use the paper template that came with the kit or helm bezel as the template.
As part of any new helm pump installation, make sure that the hydraulic fill port is located on top to facilitate any air bleeding upon filling the system. You'll also need to attach the cylinder and bleed the air.
If you're not confident in doing this yourself, you can always hire a professional to do it for you.
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The pressure of hydraulic steering on the transom
Hydraulic steering systems use an electronically-controlled on-demand hydraulic pump to give your boat the same easy steering you are accustomed to in your car. However, this can put a lot of pressure on the transom, especially in older boats that have wood in them.
One user on a forum noted that they had a 1987 Bass Cat Pantera bass boat that needed its steering replaced. They were considering switching from mechanical to hydraulic steering, but were concerned about the pressure this would put on the transom.
Another user on the same forum thread mentioned that they had not experienced any issues with hydraulic steering on their older boat. They suggested that the only potential problem they could think of was that without the feedback, an operator might run the motor without trimming it.
It is important to consider the potential risks and benefits of switching to hydraulic steering, especially in older boats. While it can provide easier steering, it may also put additional pressure on the transom.
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Trimming the motor
The process of trimming the motor involves adjusting the angle of the motor in relation to the boat's hull. This adjustment can be made manually or, in some cases, with the help of hydraulic trim tabs. Trimming the motor correctly ensures that your boat handles well and maintains its speed, fuel efficiency, and manoeuvrability.
To trim the motor effectively, start by consulting your boat's manual to understand the specific recommendations and procedures for your model. Each boat may have unique requirements, so it's important to familiarise yourself with the manufacturer's instructions.
Next, you'll need to locate the trim adjustment controls, which are typically found near the steering wheel or throttle controls. These controls allow you to raise or lower the motor, adjusting the trim angle. Make sure you understand the direction of movement before making any adjustments, as raising or lowering the motor too quickly or too far can impact the boat's performance and handling.
When trimming the motor, it's crucial to consider the boat's speed and load. The ideal trim angle will vary depending on whether the boat is at rest, cruising at a steady speed, or accelerating. Additionally, the load on the boat, including the number of passengers and the weight of any gear, will also affect the optimal trim angle. As a general rule, you'll want to trim the motor down when the boat is at rest or travelling at low speeds, and trim it up as the speed increases.
Remember to always exercise caution when working on your bass boat's hydraulic steering lines and motor trimming. If you're unsure about any aspect of the process, it's best to consult a marine mechanic or seek advice from experienced boaters.
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Steering for outboards 150hp and above
If you have a bass boat with an outboard of 150hp or more, you may want to consider switching from mechanical to hydraulic steering. This will give you the same easy steering as you are accustomed to in your car.
However, if your boat is an older model, such as a 1987 Bass Cat Pantera, you may need to be cautious about switching to hydraulic steering because of the pressure this will put on the transom.
One user reported that they never had any issues with hydraulic steering on older boats, but they did note that without the feedback, an operator might run around without trimming the motor.
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Steering for twin and triple engine applications
For twin and triple engine applications, bass boats, pontoon boats, power catamarans and inboard cruisers without engine-driven power assist, power assist is used. This uses an electronically-controlled on-demand hydraulic pump to give your boat the same easy steering as a car.
There are some concerns about switching to hydraulic steering in older bass boats, as the pressure may put a strain on the transom. One user commented that they had not experienced any issues with hydraulic steering on their older boat, but they did note that without the feedback, an operator might run around without trimming the motor.
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Frequently asked questions
It is recommended that you replace your hydraulic steering lines every two years.
This depends on the type of system you have. Three-line systems use soft refrigeration type copper tubing, while helms use nylon hose.
If you need to remove the steering shaft nuts for maintenance, remember to replace them with new ones. If you don't, the cylinder assembly could come loose and you could lose steering control.
If you are installing a new helm pump, make sure that the hydraulic fill port is located on top to facilitate any air bleeding upon filling the system.
