Re-Installing A Boat's Rubber Rub Rail: A Step-By-Step Guide

A boat's rub rail is a protective strip installed along the sheerline, where the hull meets the deck. It protects the topsides of the boat from scratches and bumps and also provides a clean, finished look. Over time, the rub rail can become worn and will need to be replaced. This can be done by boat owners themselves, although it is recommended to have an extra pair of hands to help. This paragraph will discuss the steps involved in putting a rubber rub rail back on a boat.

Removing the old rub rail

The first step to removing the old rub rail is to unscrew and remove the end caps. If your old rub rail has an insert, the next step is to remove it. Using a screwdriver, pry the end of the insert out of the old rub rail at the transom where the end cap was. Once you can grip the insert, pull it out of the rub rail, working your way around the boat. If your old rub rail has a stiffening strip, remove that as well.

Next, remove the screws or rivets that attach the rub rail to the hull. If the rub rail is fastened with pop rivets, drill out the rivet heads and push the shafts in to prevent rattling. Start at the back of the boat and work your way forward.

Once the old rub rail is removed, check for any screws or rivets that may have been pushed through the old rail and remove them. Be careful not to remove the screws that secure the cap to the hull!

Before installing the new rub rail, scrape off any old sealant with a putty knife or scraper. Be careful not to scratch the gelcoat. It's not necessary to remove all of the old sealant, just focus on removing the excess.

Depending on the age of your boat, you may want to consider tightening the screws that secure the cap to the hull. Be careful not to strip the screws!

Now is also a good time to clean off any dirt and debris that may have accumulated underneath the old rub rail. Acetone is a good product to assist with this. Simply apply acetone to a rag and wipe down the cap area. You may want to wear gloves for this step.

Finally, fill all the old rub rail screw holes with marine-grade sealant. You will be drilling new holes for the new rub rail, so wipe off any excess sealant and let it cure according to the manufacturer's suggestions.

Filling old holes and drilling new ones

Filling the old holes and drilling new ones is a crucial step in the process of installing a new rub rail on your boat. Here's a detailed guide to help you through it:

Filling Old Holes

Before you start filling the old holes, make sure you have removed the old rub rail completely, including the end caps, insert, screws, rivets, and excess sealant. Use a scraper to clean any remaining residue from the surface.

Now, it's time to fill the old screw holes with an epoxy filler or epoxy paste. You can use products like Interlux Watertite epoxy filler or 3M5200. This step is important to restore the surface and create a smooth base for your new rub rail. Make sure to follow the instructions on the product you choose and allow adequate curing time before moving on to drilling new holes.

Drilling New Holes

When drilling new holes for your rub rail, it's essential to mark the locations accurately. Measure and mark the locations for the fastener holes every 6 to 8 inches around the boat. You can use masking tape to create a neater job and make it easier to drill accurately. It's recommended to have a helper hold the rail in place while you mark and drill the holes.

When drilling the new holes, use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screws you will be using. This ensures a snug fit. If you're using a power drill, set the torque to stop at the surface of the rub rail to prevent puckering or damage. You can also drill additional holes in the rub rail to avoid existing screws or add more screws for extra security in areas like the transom turn and the end of the rub rail.

Before inserting the screws, apply marine sealant to the screw threads. This will help secure the rub rail in place and protect against water ingress. Use a power driver with a Phillips bit to drive the screws into the holes. A cordless screwdriver or a screw gun can be handy for this task, especially if you have a helper, as it will speed up the process.

Remember to follow the specific instructions that come with your chosen rub rail kit, as there may be slight variations in the installation process depending on the type and brand of rub rail you purchase.

Preparing the new rub rail

Before installing a new rub rail, it is important to prepare the surface and ensure you have the right tools and materials. Here are the steps you need to take to prepare the new rub rail:

• Remove the old rub rail: Start by unscrewing the end caps and removing the insert if your old rub rail has one. You can use a screwdriver to pry out the insert, starting at the transom. Then, remove the screws or rivets attaching the rub rail to the hull, working your way from the back of the boat to the front. Be careful not to remove the screws that secure the cap to the hull.
• Clean the surface: Use a putty knife or scraper to scrape off any excess sealant or residue from the old rub rail. Be careful not to scratch the gelcoat. You can use acetone on a rag to wipe down the cap area and remove any dirt or debris.
• Fill the old screw holes: Fill the holes left by the screws or rivets with a suitable sealant, such as marine-grade sealant or epoxy filler. Let the sealant cure completely before drilling new holes.
• Mark the screw locations: Mark the locations for the new screw holes above or below the rub rail location. These marks will guide you when drilling the holes for the new rub rail.
• Choose the right rub rail material: Rub rails are typically available in flexible vinyl, semi-rigid vinyl, rigid vinyl, stainless steel, or aluminum. Choose the material that best suits your boat's style and requirements.
• Measure and cut the new rub rail: Measure the length of your boat and add its length to its beam. Then, double that sum to ensure you have enough rub rail to complete the job. Cut the new rub rail to the appropriate length, leaving a slight overlap of about one-eighth of an inch if you are using multiple coils.
• Gather the necessary tools and materials: Make sure you have all the tools and materials you need before starting the installation. This includes a power drill, drill bits, a screwdriver or power driver, a heat gun or hair dryer, marine sealant, screws, and any other specific components that come with your chosen rub rail kit.

Once you have completed these steps, you will be ready to start installing the new rub rail. Remember to work carefully and take your time to ensure a neat and secure installation.

Installing the new rub rail

Now that you've removed the old rub rail, it's time to install the new one. Here's a step-by-step guide:

• Prepare the surface: Use a putty knife or scraper to remove any excess sealant or residue from the old rub rail. Be careful not to scratch the gelcoat. You can use acetone to clean the surface and remove any dirt or debris.
• Fill the old screw holes: Fill the holes left by the previous screws or rivets with an epoxy filler or marine-grade sealant. This will ensure a smooth surface for installing the new rub rail. Allow the filler or sealant to cure completely before proceeding.
• Measure and mark: Measure the length of your boat and add the beam length. Then, double that sum to ensure you have enough rub rail material. Mark the location of the new fastener holes above or below the rub rail location every 6 to 8 inches. This will ensure a secure fit.
• Tape it: Apply masking tape above and below the rub rail location. This will create a neater job when you apply the sealant.
• Start installing: Begin at the middle of the transom or at a transom corner. Unroll a few feet of the coiled rub rail and bore holes through the rail and the boat, countersinking the holes through the rail. Apply a marine-grade sealant to the back of the rail and the fastener threads, then install the fasteners.
• Continue around the boat: Wave a heat gun over the rail at corners or the bow to soften it and help it take the bend. Overlap the ends of the rub rail by about one-eighth of an inch if you need to join two coils.
• Secure the ends: When you reach the starting point, go back and join the splices with screws. Trim any excess material at the transom, ensuring it is clean and mated with the transom angle.
• Seal it: Smooth out any squeezed-out sealant above and below the rub rail with a gloved finger. Remove the masking tape by pulling it up and away from the edges.
• Install the insert: If your rub rail has an insert, you will need to uncoil and centre it on the boat, just like you did with the rub rail. Place the centre point at the bow and drape the two sections on top of the gunwales. Tap the insert with a mallet to seat it, working in small sections at a time.
• Mount the end caps: Trim the rub rail and insert about 3/8 inch short of the transom edge. Install the final screw, then reinstall the insert. Position the end cap and use the mounting holes as guides to drill pilot holes. Secure the end cap with the supplied screws.

Your new rub rail is now installed! This process should take approximately 5 to 6 hours to complete, depending on your skill level.

Installing the insert

The insert will bear the brunt of the impact when the boat collides with a pier, piling or dock. The trick here is to squeeze the insert into position. Use a heat gun to make this process easier. It is also helpful to use liquid soap on both the insert and the track to move it into place. Having the soap in a spray bottle works best. Some people simply use a soapy rag and wipe the track and insert. If you are working outside in cold weather, you may have to use a heat gun on the track surface to increase the temperature.

To install the insert, first uncoil and fold it in half to find the centre point, as you did with the rub rail itself. Do this on a grassy area or smooth floor to avoid scratching the vinyl insert as you uncoil and untwist it. Place the centre point at the bow and drape the two sections on top of the gunwales. Starting at the bow and working aft one side at a time, set the insert's bottom leg into the bottom groove in the rail. Tap the insert with a dead-blow mallet to seat it. Work in 4-5 inch sections all the way to the end of the transom.

Frequently asked questions