
Putting a boat on chocks is a straightforward process, but it requires careful execution and the right equipment to ensure safety. The first step is to block the boat on a hard, level surface, using wooden blocks to prevent the boat from rolling. Next, remove all strapping connecting the boat to the trailer, including the front tie-down and rear tie-downs. Then, use a hydraulic jack to lift the boat until you see a gap between the boat and the trailer's bunk carpet support runners. Place boat stands on the sides of the boat and adjust them until the boat is level. Outline the hull's supports with masking tape to identify safe areas for blocking, avoiding sharp angles where blocking could slip. Continue this process, jacking up the boat and placing blocks and stands until the boat is fully supported, then carefully slide out the trailer.
What You'll Learn
Use boat stands to keep the boat balanced and level
To keep a boat balanced and level, boat stands are essential. Boat stands are commonly used to support boats that are out of the water for maintenance or repairs. They are also useful for owners of trailered boats. Boat stands are specialised versions of automotive jack stands and come in three main styles: keel stands, sailboat stands, and motorboat stands. Keel stands are square, level, and plumb with four legs and are designed to carry the majority of the boat's weight. Motorboat stands are similar but have a larger top for more hull contact and a swivel system. Sailboat stands, on the other hand, have three legs and are built to stand at a 23-degree angle to meet the steeper hulls of sailboats. They also feature an adjustable swivel top.
When blocking up a boat, it is important to avoid using a three-point blocking stance. For an 18-foot boat, you should have two main blocks under the boat and two boat stands on the port and starboard sides, making a total of six contact points. Bigger boats require more blocks and stands—for a 25-foot boat, you will need eight contact points. The main weight of the boat always sits on the wooden blocking, while the boat stands keep the boat balanced and level.
When placing the stands, it is important to select the strongest areas of the hull to support the boat's weight, such as the chines, the keel, and along the stringers. The rear stands should be placed as close to the transom as possible, as this is a strong and heavy area of the hull. Additionally, the ground surface should be solid and reasonably flat, and plywood bases should be placed under the stands to spread the load and prevent them from settling.
By following these guidelines and using the appropriate number and type of boat stands, you can effectively keep a boat balanced and level when it is out of the water for maintenance, repairs, or storage.
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Use wood blocking to support the boat's weight
When blocking up a boat, it is important to use wood blocking to support the boat's weight. This is because the main weight of the boat will sit on the wooden blocking, while the boat stands are used just to keep the boat balanced and level.
For this, you should look for 12" x 12" pressure-treated wood blocking. If you can't find the correct size, you can use 6" x 6" pressure-treated wood from Home Depot or Lowes. To do this, glue four pieces together with Liquid Nails and then nail 12" x 12" x 5/8" plywood to the ends to make them one 12" x 12" unit and to keep them square and locked in place.
When blocking up a boat, do not use a three-point blocking stance. For an 18-foot boat, you should have two main blocks under the boat and two boat stands on the port and starboard sides for a total of six contact points. Bigger boats require more blocks and boat stands (every six feet). So, for a 25-foot boat, you will have eight contact points.
Make sure you tap the bottom of the hull to find the inside supports so you know where to place the blocking. If placed in the wrong areas, the blocking can go through the hull and damage the boat.
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Tap the bottom of the hull to find the inside supports
Tapping the bottom of the hull is a crucial step in the process of taking a boat off a trailer and placing it on blocks, also known as "chucks". This step ensures that you identify the inside supports of the boat, which are essential for determining where to place the blocks that will bear the boat's weight.
To begin, you'll need to choose an appropriate location for blocking the boat. It should be a hard, level surface. If you're blocking the boat on an asphalt driveway, it's important to place plywood first to prevent the stands from digging into the asphalt as the temperature rises. Once you've selected the right spot, place wooden blocks in front of the tires to prevent the boat from rolling forward when you lift its back end.
Next, you'll remove the boat's covering strapping, as well as the front tie-down by the bow eye hook and the rear tie-downs on the transom. After that, you can use a small hydraulic jack, with a protective piece of wood underneath, to lift the centre of the transom until you see a gap in the bunk carpet support runners. At this point, you'll place boat stands on the port and starboard sides, release the jack, and then lower the stands until the boat's weight is resting on the wooden blocks.
Now, you'll move to the front of the boat and gently tap the bottom of the hull with a small hammer. By doing this, you'll be able to identify the different sounds that indicate the presence of hollow areas or inside supports. You'll hear a high-pitched sound in the hollow areas and a dull sound when you tap against a support or bulkhead. This process is crucial for marking the safe areas for blocking the boat. Use masking tape to outline the supports, indicating where the hydraulic jack will be placed to lift the boat.
By tapping the bottom of the hull and identifying the inside supports, you can ensure that the blocking is placed correctly and avoid causing damage to the boat. This step is essential for the safety and stability of the boat during the blocking process.
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Outline the hull's supports with masking tape
To outline the hull supports with masking tape, start by gently tapping the bottom of the hull with a small hammer. Listen for the different sounds that the hull makes as you tap it. You will hear a high-pitched sound in the hollow areas and a dull sound in areas where there is a support or bulkhead. Using masking tape, outline the areas where you hear the dull sound. These areas are where you will place a hydraulic jack to lift the boat, as they are stronger than the unsupported areas.
The masking tape outline will help you identify the safe areas for blocking the boat. In the photo provided, the green areas are safe for blocking, while the blue area is dangerous as there is a risk of the block slipping out from under the boat. The blue tape is on the front section of the boat, which has a sharp angle that is not suitable for blocking. Instead, you want to place the wooden blocking on flat, level surfaces of the hull.
By outlining the hull supports with masking tape, you can clearly see where it is safe to place the blocks and jacks to support the weight of the boat. This will help ensure that the boat is securely blocked up and level, reducing the risk of the boat falling or sustaining damage.
It is important to note that the number of contact points for blocking will depend on the size of the boat. For an 18-foot boat, you will need two main blocks under the boat and two boat stands on the port and starboard sides, for a total of six contact points. Bigger boats will require more blocks and boat stands, with an additional two contact points for every six feet in length.
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Place blocks under the chines until the boat sits on them
To place a boat on blocks, or "chucks", you'll need to find a suitable location, gather the right equipment, and perform the process carefully. Here's a detailed guide on how to place blocks under the chines until the boat sits securely on them:
First, identify a hard, level surface for blocking the boat. If blocking on an asphalt driveway, cover it with plywood to prevent stands from digging into the asphalt. Place wooden blocks in front of the tires to prevent the boat from rolling forward.
Next, remove all strapping connecting the boat to the trailer, including the front tie-down by the bow eye hook and the rear tie-downs on the transom. Then, place a small hydraulic jack with a protective piece of wood underneath the centre of the transom to jack up the boat slightly.
At this point, you can place boat stands on the port and starboard sides and adjust them to level the boat. Release the hydraulic jack and put wooden blocks in their place. Lower the boat stands until the boat's weight is primarily on the wooden blocks.
Now, move to the front of the boat and use a small hammer to gently tap the bottom of the hull. You'll hear different sounds indicating hollow areas and areas with internal supports or bulkheads. Outline the supports with masking tape, as these areas are stronger and better suited for lifting the boat.
Return to the rear of the boat and place the hydraulic jack under the centre of the hull, again using a piece of wood to protect the hull. Jack up the boat until it lifts above the bunk carpet runners. Stop jacking once you see this space appear.
Now, carefully pull the trailer out until you reach the first support crossmember, then stop. Place a second hydraulic jack behind the crossmember and jack it up to release the first jack. Repeat this process as you move towards the rear of the boat, ensuring you have support in place before removing any jacks.
Finally, when you've cleared the trailer, set up the blocking as far forward as possible. You can adjust the boat stands, slide the blocks into position, and then lower the stands. Ensure the boat is securely blocked and level before leaving it unattended.
Chines refer to the sections of a boat where the sides of the hull intersect with the underside or bottom. They are characterised by a sharp angle change in the cross-section of the hull. By placing blocks under the chines and following the steps outlined above, you can safely support the boat and perform any necessary maintenance or repairs.
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Frequently asked questions
If you're storing your boat for the winter, it's important to block it up. If you use a roller trailer, the rollers will leave indentations in the hull and possible stress cracks. You can buy boat stands, or make your own blocks from wood. Place the blocks in a two-point stance, with the main weight of the boat on the blocks and the stands used to balance and level the boat.
Back the boat/trailer up to a sturdy tree and tie off the boat through the stern eyes. Pull forward slowly until you have a couple of feet of clearance, then stack blocks under the chines until the boat is supported. Repeat this process until the boat is fully supported, then pull the trailer out.
Make sure you have an extra person watching and never use a three-point blocking stance. Do not use cinder blocks, as they can crumble and cause the boat to fall. Tap the bottom of the hull to find the inside supports so you know where to place the blocks.