Kristian Ferrell
Mounting a transducer on the back of a fiberglass bass boat requires careful installation. While some people prefer through-hull transducers for their performance and ease of cable management, they are generally more expensive and prone to damage from floating debris. Transom-mounted transducers are a more popular choice for bass boats, and careful placement is key to maximising performance. The transducer should be parallel to the hull and 1/8 below it, with the starboard side being a common location. To avoid gelcoat cracking, use a drill in reverse and a countersink to carefully chamfer the edges around the hole. Seal the installation with a quality marine sealant and consider bedding the entire transducer bracket in sealant to prevent crevice corrosion.
Characteristics and Values Table for Mounting a Transducer on a Fiberglass Bass Boat
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Type of transducer | Through-hull, transom-mount, or in-hull |
| Performance characteristics | Speed, side imaging |
| Installation characteristics | Requires a 1" to 3" hole in the hull bottom, sealant to prevent water intrusion, careful positioning to avoid interference and excessive aeration |
| Materials | Marine sealant, screws, brackets, protective box, foam, cable gland, junction box, waterproof cable |
| Location | Starboard side, as far away from the strakes as possible, behind a flat area in the hull, between the drives for twin drives |
| Height | Parallel with the hull bottom and 1/8" below it |
| Angle | A few degrees lower can improve performance at speed |
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What You'll Learn
Using a protective box to mount the transducer
To start, you need to decide where to mount the transducer. On the outside of the hull, ensure there is clean water flow with no bubbles or turbulence. Inside the hull, choose a spot that is accessible but not in the way. Cut a large hole in the base of the box, removing the entire bottom face and leaving a flange of around 5-10mm. This flange will be used to create a strong bond with the hull. Drill a hole in the box for the gland and screw it in. Degrease the area of the hull where the box will be installed. Apply a generous amount of adhesive sealant to the flange and press the box onto the hull, ensuring that excess sealant squeezes out.
Once the box is securely attached to the hull, fill it with liquid. The liquid helps to transmit signals from the transducer to the hull and then through the water outside. You can use cooking oil, plain water, or water with car antifreeze. After screwing on the lid, be sure to check for leaks and test the setup while underway.
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Choosing the right location for the transducer
When it comes to choosing the right location for the transducer on your fiberglass bass boat, there are several important factors to consider. Firstly, it is recommended to mount the transducer as close to the centre of the boat as possible. This helps to ensure that the transducer is fully submerged and avoids any water turbulence or air bubbles that could interfere with the signal.
Another factor to consider is the mounting method. For fiberglass boats, you typically have three options: transom mount, in-hull, or thru-hull. Transom-mounted transducers are bolted to an angled bracket on the transom, usually on the starboard side of the motor. They are easy to install and compatible with various hull materials and motor configurations. However, they may not perform as well as thru-hull transducers at higher speeds.
Thru-hull transducers, on the other hand, are installed through the bottom of the hull and are known for delivering superior performance, especially at speed. They are located in clean water, well forward of the engines, which reduces the risk of interference from other electronics. However, thru-hull installations are more expensive and challenging to install, requiring a hole to be drilled into the hull.
In-hull transducers, which are installed inside the bilge on the bottom of the boat, are another option. However, they are not recommended for fiberglass boats as they require a solid hull for effective operation.
When deciding between transom-mounted and thru-hull transducers, it's important to consider not only performance but also your boat's design and your personal preferences. If you opt for a transom-mounted transducer, ensure that it is parallel to the hull bottom and slightly below it to improve performance. You can fine-tune the positioning by lowering the "tail" end of the transducer a few degrees or loosening the bracket bolts to adjust the angle.
Additionally, when installing the transducer, ensure that the cable is pointing towards the back of the boat. This allows you to run the cable up the transom to the console, following the same path as the steering cables. Remember to change the menu option to "Flip Left and Right" to compensate for the cable orientation.
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Drilling holes in the transom
Step 1: Prepare the Drill
Before drilling, ensure you have the correct size drill bit. The bit should be slightly larger than the shank of the screw but smaller than the outer diameter of the threads. It is also important to use a sharp, good-quality drill bit to prevent the bit from binding and to create clean holes.
Step 2: Create Pilot Holes
To prevent the gelcoat from cracking, it is recommended to start by drilling very tiny pilot holes. One suggestion is to run the drill in reverse until the bit reaches the fibreglass, then switch to forward drilling to finish the hole. This technique helps to avoid gelcoat cracking, which can lead to water penetration between the gel and the fibreglass.
Step 3: Seal the Holes
After drilling the pilot holes, seal them with a quality marine sealant. 3M 5200, a high-strength polyurethane sealant, is commonly used but may be stronger than necessary for this application. Lower-strength alternatives, such as Sikaflex 295 UV or 3M 4200, are recommended.
Step 4: Counter-Sinking and Chamfering
When using screws, counter-sinking the gel coat is important to prevent cracking when tightening the screws. This can be done by carefully chamfering the edges around the hole with a countersink tool.
Step 5: Final Assembly
Finally, coat the screws and fill the pilot holes with the chosen marine sealant. This step ensures a watertight seal and helps prevent crevice corrosion.
It is important to follow these steps carefully to ensure a secure and watertight installation when drilling holes in the transom of a fibreglass bass boat.
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Using a sealant to prevent water intrusion
When mounting a transducer on the back of a fibreglass bass boat, it is important to use a sealant to prevent water intrusion. This will ensure that the transducer is securely attached to the boat and will prevent water from entering the boat through the screw holes.
There are several sealants that can be used for this purpose, including marine-grade silicone, epoxy, and polyurethane. It is important to choose a sealant that is specifically designed for marine use and that is approved for use below the waterline.
One commonly recommended sealant is 3M 5200, a high-strength polyurethane sealant. However, some people find that its strong bonding properties make it difficult to remove brackets and screws in the future. Lower-strength polyurethanes like 3M 4200 or 4000 UV are also suitable and are less likely to cause problems with future maintenance. These sealants are designed to stay pliable and can be purchased at most boat stores or on Amazon.
Another option is to use a marine silicone sealant to fill the screw holes and create a watertight seal. This type of sealant is typically used to fill smaller gaps and can be found at hardware stores like Lowes or Home Depot.
In addition to choosing the right sealant, it is important to follow proper installation techniques. This includes drilling the holes for the screws and countersinking the edges to create a smooth surface. The screws should then be coated with the chosen sealant and inserted into the holes. It is also recommended to bed the entire transducer bracket in sealant to prevent crevice corrosion.
By following these steps and using the appropriate sealant, you can effectively prevent water intrusion when mounting a transducer on the back of a fibreglass bass boat.
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Adjusting the height of the transducer
When adjusting the height of the transducer on a fiberglass bass boat, there are several key factors and procedures to consider. Firstly, it is important to achieve the correct side-to-side angle, which should be as close to parallel as possible with a straight edge laid across both gunwales at the transom. This alignment ensures accurate readings from the transducer. The boat's floor can also serve as a reference for levelling, although it may not be easily visible during the adjustment process.
The ideal running depth of the transducer is another critical factor. This depth should allow the transducer to maintain contact with the water as the boat manoeuvres while minimising drag. Metal hulls, which are typically less smooth than fiberglass hulls, may require a deeper running depth to compensate for turbulence caused by hull irregularities. To optimise performance, adjustments to both the transducer's running depth and mounting angles may be necessary.
When fine-tuning the height of the transducer, it is recommended to start with a position that is parallel to the hull bottom and 1/8" below it. This initial setting serves as a baseline for further adjustments. If improvements in performance at speed are desired, the "tail" end of the transducer can be lowered gradually in small increments of 1/8" until optimal readings are achieved. However, it is important to be cautious when lowering the transducer, as excessive lowering can lead to increased drag and heightened vulnerability to strikes from floating debris.
To determine if the transducer is positioned too low, pay attention to the appearance of the water around the "nose" of the transducer. If you notice a roostertail of white water, it indicates that the transducer is too low, potentially creating its own turbulence and negatively impacting performance. In such cases, raising the transducer slightly or adjusting the "tail" end can help resolve the issue.
When adjusting the height of the transducer, it is advisable to use mounting boards available from retailers like Bass Pro and Cabelas. These mounting boards allow for easy adjustments without the need to put additional holes in the transom. Additionally, consider the type of transducer mount you intend to use. For instance, an aluminium mount that fastens to the top of the transom with a screw clamp can be purchased from Bass Pro, providing an option for mounting the transducer below the waterline.
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Frequently asked questions
The best location for a transom mount transducer on a fiberglass bass boat is on the starboard side, as close to the centre line as possible but at least 3 inches outside the swing radius of the prop blades. It should be behind a flat area in the hull and between strakes.
To attach a transducer mount to a fiberglass boat transom, you can use small fibreglass mounting boards from Cabelas and mount the transducer directly onto it. You can also use a King Starboard (poly) block such as a Stern Saver to accept the retaining hardware. The block gets glued to the hull with a special adhesive, and hardware gets screwed into the block.
When mounting a transom-mount transducer, it is important to ensure that the transducer is parallel with the hull bottom and 1/8" below it. Lowering the "tail" end of the transducer a few degrees can improve performance at speed. It is also important to seal the installation by coating screws and filling pilot holes with a quality marine sealant.
