Helena Frye
Fish finders are a great way to improve your fishing experience, and they can be easily installed on a fiberglass boat. The process involves a few steps, including choosing the best location for the fishfinder, marking the transom, running the transducer wire to the dash, securing the wires, and making the necessary connections. It's important to carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions and take the proper precautions to ensure a watertight seal. While it can be a DIY project, some boat owners may prefer to seek professional help, especially when it comes to drilling holes in the fiberglass. With the right tools and guidance, you can successfully install a fishfinder and enhance your fishing adventures.
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What You'll Learn
Finding the best location for your fishfinder
Finding the best location for your fish finder is crucial to ensure optimal performance and ease of use. Here are some factors to consider when choosing the ideal spot:
Ease of Visibility: Position your fish finder in a location that is easily visible from your usual spot in the cockpit. This ensures that you can monitor the display without straining or having to move around the boat.
Space Availability: Measure the amount of free space required for the fish finder using a tape measure. This includes considering the dimensions of the display unit as well as any mounting hardware or brackets. Ensure that the chosen location has sufficient space to accommodate the fish finder without obstructing other important areas of the boat.
Accessibility for Installation: In addition to the front-facing display, consider the accessibility of the back or underside of the chosen location. There needs to be enough room to install the fish finder securely and manage the wiring effectively.
Transducer Placement: The transducer, which sends and receives sonar waves, should be mounted on the transom. Hold the transducer bracket against the transom and adjust it until you find the ideal position. You may use a balance to ensure it remains horizontal. Mark the locations of the bracket's mounting holes, and then drill holes at those markings.
Wiring Management: Run the transducer wiring to your dash, coiling any extra line and securing it with clamps. Keep the transducer wiring separate from other cables, such as the engine's wiring harness and the VHF cable, to prevent interference.
By carefully considering these factors, you can determine the best location for your fish finder on your fiberglass boat, ensuring a successful installation and optimal performance out on the water.
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Securing the transducer wire
First, run the transducer wire to the dash. This is done by holding the transducer bracket against the transom and marking the location of the bracket's mounting holes. It is important to ensure that the face of the transducer is perfectly horizontal and about 1/8 inch below the running surface of the hull to avoid turbulence and maintain the fishfinder's performance.
Next, use the small wire clamps included with your fishfinder to secure the transducer wire up the back of the transom. Secure the wire every 12-18 inches with clamps or tie-wraps, ensuring that there are no droops or loose areas in the wire. This is to prevent vibrations and gravity from pulling at the wires, which can cause chafing against the fiberglass and stress your connections. If your boat has wiring routed under the gunwale, use tie-wraps to secure the wire wherever possible along the run.
Additionally, keep the transducer wire separate from the engine's wiring harness and the VHF cable to avoid electrical interference. You can then run the unit's power leads to the terminal block and seal off the wiring hole behind the binnacle mount with a grommet or silicon sealant and a clamshell vent.
Finally, finish the wiring connections by connecting the power leads and plugging the power and transducer wires into the back of the fishfinder. Remember to allow adequate drying time for the sealant before testing your boat to ensure a watertight seal.
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Drilling holes and mounting the fishfinder
Once you have identified the ideal location, use the mounting template to mark the transom. Hold the transducer in place and check it from different angles to ensure it meets the recommended parameters. Before mounting the transducer bracket, run the transducer line to the dash. If your boat previously had a fishfinder with a transom mount, you can cut the transducer off and use the old wire to draw the new one through the wiring chase.
Now, it's time to drill the holes. Place the monitor's bracket that came with your fishfinder on the console where you want it to be positioned. Select the pre-drilled holes where you'll insert the bolts and mark these spots with a pencil. Remember to be gentle when drilling through fibreglass as it can chip easily. After drilling the holes, coat the clean screws and the insides of the transom holes with an adhesive or sealant. This step is crucial to creating a watertight seal.
Next, you can secure the transducer wire. Use the small wire clamps that came with your fishfinder to secure the wire up the back of the transom and to the rigging tube. Ensure that the wire is secure every foot or so, and there are no droops or looseness. If your boat has wiring routed under the gunwale, use tie-wraps to secure the wire along the run.
Finally, seal off the wiring hole behind the binnacle mount to ensure it is watertight. You can use a grommet or silicon sealant if a grommet is not available. Cover the hole with a clamshell vent, mark the spots you need to drill, and screw it down. With the wiring connections complete, you can now place the fishfinder into its spot!
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Running the power leads to the terminal block
Now that you've identified the best location for your fishfinder, it's time to run the unit's power leads to the terminal block. This process will involve carefully routing and securing the power cables to ensure a safe and reliable installation. Here's a step-by-step guide:
Step 1: Prepare the Power Leads
Before you begin, determine if you need to lengthen or shorten the power leads to reach the terminal block. If adjustments are necessary, be sure to use proper color-coding and tinned-copper wire (boat cable) of the manufacturer's recommended gauge. Use wire-to-wire connections with crimped barrel connectors, and avoid soldering. Remember to maintain the manufacturer's included in-line fuse to prevent any damage to the unit and to avoid invalidating the warranty.
Step 2: Route the Power Leads
Push the power leads through the exit hole you drilled, ensuring that the plug has enough freedom to reach the unit without exposing excess wiring outside the helm. Carefully route the power leads to the terminal block, avoiding any sharp edges or moving parts that could damage the cables.
Step 3: Secure the Power Leads
Use tie-wraps or cushioned clamps to secure the power leads at regular intervals, typically every 18 inches. This will prevent the cables from drooping or slackening, reducing the risk of chafing and ensuring a neat installation.
Step 4: Connect to the Terminal Block
Connect the power leads to the terminal block, following the manufacturer's instructions for proper polarity and connections. Ensure that all connections are secure and that there is no slack or tension on the cables.
Step 5: Apply Heat-Shrink Tubing and Corrosion Inhibitor
As an optional but recommended step, apply heat-shrink tubing to the wire-to-wire connections to provide insulation and protect against corrosion and vibration. Additionally, spray all connections with a corrosion inhibitor, such as CorrosionX or Boeshield T-9, for added protection.
Step 6: Final Checks
Before proceeding, take a moment to inspect your work. Ensure that the power leads are securely routed and connected, with no exposed wires or potential hazards. Double-check that all connections are properly insulated and protected with heat-shrink tubing and/or corrosion inhibitor.
By following these steps, you'll be able to safely and effectively run the power leads to the terminal block for your fishfinder installation. Remember to take your time, work carefully, and refer to the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for the best results.
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Sealing off the wiring hole
First, you need to identify the wiring hole. This is the hole that you drilled behind the binnacle mount to run the transducer wire through. It is important to make sure that the wiring is secure and there are no loose connections before sealing the hole.
To seal the wiring hole, you can use a grommet if one is available. A grommet is a small ring or edge of rubber or plastic that will protect the wires from any sharp edges in the hole. If you are unable to find a grommet that fits, you can use a silicone sealant. Apply a thin layer of silicone sealant around the edge of the hole, making sure to fill any gaps or imperfections.
Next, you will need to cover the hole with a clamshell vent. The clamshell vent will keep the connection watertight while still allowing access to the wiring if needed. Hold the clamshell vent in place over the hole and mark the spots where you need to drill to screw it down. Drill the marked spots and then screw the clamshell vent in place.
Now that the wiring hole is sealed, you can move on to the final wiring connections. Make sure that the battery is switched off before connecting the power leads and plugging in the power and transducer wires into the back of the fishfinder. Allow adequate time for the sealant to dry before testing the fishfinder in the water.
By following these steps, you can ensure that the wiring hole for your fish finder installation is properly sealed and protected from water damage.
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Frequently asked questions
The best location for your fish finder will depend on the length of the supplied wires. You may need to lengthen or shorten the power leads. If you need to lengthen them, be sure to stick with the proper colour-coding and use tinned-copper wire. You'll also want to choose a location that's easy to see from your spot at the cockpit. You'll need to ensure there's enough room to install it and that there are no accessories or wires behind the dash.
First, identify the bracket location and use the mounting template to mark the transom. Hold the transducer in place and view it from different angles to ensure you're meeting all the recommended parameters. Next, run the transducer line to the dash. You can then run the wiring through and coil any extra line inside, securing it with clamps. Drill the holes and screw the mount in, creating a watertight seal. Finally, seal off the wiring hole and complete the wiring connections.
To maintain your fish finder, consider using BoatLIFE sealants to keep your boat watertight and treating it with Fiberglass Rubbing Compound and Life Wax. To upgrade your fish finder, you can install a new display within reach but out of the way, or add a second fish finder in the bow for a clearer signal.
