Amanda Knapp
Livewells are tanks used to keep fish or bait alive in a boat. They can be made from a variety of materials, including fibreglass, aluminium, and wood. When installing a livewell in a fibreglass boat, it is important to consider the location and available deck space, as well as the shape and size of the tank. The tank can be permanent or temporary, but it must be secured properly to prevent it from sliding or tipping over. Proper plumbing is critical to keep the live bait healthy and to prevent the tank from overflowing. This may involve tying into the existing live bait pump and plumbing system or installing additional components such as a pump, high-speed pickup, and seacock. Building a fibreglass livewell typically involves creating a mould, establishing the size and shape of the well, and using tools such as a table saw, jigsaw, trim router, and screw gun for construction.
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What You'll Learn
Livewell tank shape and size
The shape and size of your livewell tank will depend on the location and available deck space. Generally, free-standing wells come in round or oval cylinders, or tapered cubes.
If you have limited space, a round well, such as the 26-gallon Pacific Edge Chovy Master CM 1.5, which occupies a 20-inch circle, could be a good option. Oval-shaped wells are also a good choice for small spaces, as they can fit into tighter spots. The Kodiak ProFlow PF-32, for example, has a footprint of 17 3/4 inches by 26 inches.
If you have more space, you might opt for an oblong well, such as the Kodiak ProFlow PF-32, which has a capacity of 32 gallons and a footprint of 17 3/4 inches by 26 inches.
Fiberglass livewells can also be custom-made to fit specific dimensions and spaces. For example, one boat owner sought advice on building a removable fiberglass livewell that would fit in front of their console, with dimensions of five feet wide, 18 inches deep, and 18 inches tall.
When considering the size of your livewell, it's important to keep in mind that a full tank of water is heavy and can affect the boat's centre of gravity. Additionally, the amount of bait you plan to keep will determine the capacity you need. For example, one boat owner found that a standard 40-gallon live-bait capacity didn't hold enough bait for three anglers for a full day of fishing, so they installed an additional 28-gallon livewell.
Some livewells also offer divided tanks, allowing you to separate different species of bait. For instance, the Pacific Edge PE-60D offers 30 gallons on each side, providing a way to keep delicate baits separate from more vigorous species.
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Livewell tank material
Livewells, also known as bait wells or tanks, are used on fishing boats to store live baitfish, shrimp, crabs, or game fish that you intend to release later. They are circulating tanks with water pumped in from outside the boat to keep the water aerated, and then drained back. Livewells are important to keep fish alive, which is crucial for recreational, tournament, and commercial fishing.
Livewell materials include plastic, aluminum, and fiberglass. Fiberglass livewells offer a good combination of appearance, durability, and function. They are usually screwed to solid-fiberglass L-brackets or fiberglass-encapsulated wood joists mounted to the deck inside the base of the livewell. The size of the livewell will determine how much bait or fish it can keep alive. The shape of the tank is also important, with round or oval livewells proving to keep bait and fish alive better.
For those looking for a permanent installation, fiberglass models are a good option. They can be gel-coated to match the boat's interior and are known for their durability. Fiberglass livewells are often screwed to solid-fiberglass L-brackets or fiberglass-encapsulated wood joists mounted to the deck inside the tank.
For those who want a more temporary option, polyethylene livewells are a good choice. These are usually secured with small metal L-brackets outside the tank and can be bolted or unbolted. Polyethylene construction is known for being durable yet lightweight.
For the DIY enthusiasts, it is possible to build your own livewell tank using a mold and fiberglass. This allows for customization in terms of size and shape to fit your specific boat. However, it is important to consider the location and available deck space when deciding on the shape and size of the tank.
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Livewell tank location
The location and available deck space for the livewell will guide your decision on the shape of the tank. Free-standing wells are available in round or oval cylinders, though some take the shape of tapered cubes. One of the critical factors is the footprint. For example, a round 26-gallon tank with a 20-inch circle footprint can fit almost anywhere. If you have more space, an oblong well such as the 32-gallon Kodiak ProFlow PF-32, with a footprint of 17¾ inches by 26 inches, might be a good option.
Some boat owners prefer the look of a fiberglass livewell that's gelcoated to match the boat's interior. Permanent fiberglass models are usually screwed to solid-fiberglass L-brackets or fiberglass-encapsulated wood joists, which are mounted to the deck inside the base of the livewell. Polyethylene livewells are usually secured with small metal L-brackets outside the tank.
You can also install a cooler with a fill pump, a recirculation and aeration system, and even a light for the inside. The simplest thing to do is to install a cooler, which will come ready to install, and you can get a padded cover for it. All you need to do is install the plumbing, and you can also use it to keep your fish on ice while traveling.
The location of the livewell tank is important, as an offset livewell can upset the centre of gravity, especially when full of water, which is heavy. One boat owner chose to install an extra free-standing 28-gallon fiberglass livewell in the middle of the aft cockpit, which takes up some fishing space but keeps the crew well-supplied with live bait. Another boat owner chose to install an oval fiberglass livewell in the transom, just off-center, to avoid blocking the tuna door.
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Livewell plumbing
Plumbing is one of the most critical factors when installing a livewell in your boat. Proper plumbing is essential for keeping live bait healthy and preventing the tank from overflowing. Most livewells come with a bottom drain, which you must plug before pumping water into the tank. It is also important to use a strainer on the drain to prevent maggots or other creatures from crawling out of the livewell and into your boat. A strainer will also help keep your bait alive.
To install the thru-hull models, follow these steps as a general guide:
- Always use a ball valve at the thru-hull pickup.
- Use a strainer to prevent the pump from clogging. Be sure to clean the strainer frequently.
- Ensure the drain size is large enough to accommodate the pump.
- Tilt the pump at a 45-degree angle on the completed installation so that all the air can escape upwards.
- Drill a 1 1/16” hole for the pump base.
- Measure and cut off excess threads, leaving enough length to attach the strainer. Insert the pump and tighten.
- Drill a 1⅞” hole higher than the pump outlet and install the Directional Discharge provided. Use a waterproof sealant and tighten.
- Install a smooth vinyl hose between the Directional Discharge and the pump.
A two-pump system is the preferred setup for livewells, as it provides a backup in case one pump fails. The first pump can be a standard livewell pump to exchange water occasionally in the well. The second pump can be a 700 or 1100 GPH pump, which will keep fish healthy while the standard pump is off when the boat is in contaminated water or when the pump is air-locked.
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Livewell installation
Livewells are tanks used to keep fish or bait alive in a boat. They are usually made of fibreglass or aluminium and can be built-in or freestanding. When installing a livewell, it is important to consider the location and available deck space, as well as the shape and size of the tank.
If you are building your own livewell, you will need to start by designing the shape and size of the tank. Round or oval wells are better for bait longevity than square wells, as the corners can cause the bait to run into them and beat themselves up. Once you have designed the well, you will need to gather your materials and tools, including a table saw or circular saw, a jigsaw, a trim router, a screw gun, and a glue gun. You will also need to decide on the type of mould you will use to build the well—a popular method is to use mica-covered MDF and some square stock.
When installing a livewell, it is important to secure the tank properly to prevent it from sliding or tipping over in rough seas. Permanent fibreglass models are usually screwed to solid-fibreglass L-brackets or encapsulated wood joists, while polyethylene livewells are typically secured with small metal L-brackets outside the tank. Proper plumbing is also critical, both for keeping live bait healthy and for preventing the tank from overflowing. If possible, tie into the existing live bait pump and plumbing system, or install an additional pump, high-speed pickup, and seacock to supply the new well with circulating seawater.
Some livewells also include features such as aeration and circulation systems, which can help to keep the water clean and oxygenated. You may also want to consider a divided livewell, which allows you to separate different species of bait. Finally, think about the placement of your livewell—an offset livewell can upset the centre of gravity, especially when full of water.
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Frequently asked questions
The simplest way is to install a cooler with plumbing. You can also get a padded cover for it.
The shape and size of the livewell will depend on the available deck space. Free-standing wells are available in round or oval cylinders, and sometimes tapered cubes. The larger the radius, the better it will be for bait longevity.
Securing the tank is important to prevent it from sliding or tipping over in rough seas. Proper plumbing is also critical to keep live bait healthy and prevent the tank from overflowing.
You can use a table saw or a circular saw to cut the wood, and a jigsaw, trim router, and screw gun for assembly. Draw the perimeter of the well on an MDF base, then build a skeleton with a top, bottom, and bulkheads. Cover the skeleton with a shell of your chosen mould.
You can use bolts/nuts or screws to secure the divider. Gluing or epoxying the divider in place can also work, but be careful when drilling holes to avoid leaks or cracks.
