Oar-Some Details About Open Boat's Rowing Equipment

In Stephen Crane's short story, The Open Boat, four men find themselves stranded in a small boat in the middle of a stormy sea. The story is based on Crane's own real-life experience when a ship he was sailing to Cuba sank off the coast of Florida. The boat in the story is described as no larger than a bathtub, and the men must work together to survive.

The boat in The Open Boat is equipped with two wooden oars, which are thin and fragile-looking, handled by a sailor named Billie. Oars are used for water-borne propulsion and have been a vital part of vessels' mechanics for thousands of years. They are typically made of wood and consist of a long shaft with a flat blade on one end, with the other end grasped by the rower.

Oar length: the ideal length depends on the type of boat and rowing style

The ideal oar length depends on the type of boat and rowing style. The most common leverage ratio for rowing is 7:18, which means that 7/25 of the oar's length is inboard of the oarlocks and 18/25 of the oar is outboard. This ratio is considered ideal for rowing almost all boats.

To determine the correct oar length for your boat, you need to measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets (or the "span" between the oarlocks). Then, you can apply a formula, such as the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula, to calculate the proper oar length. This formula has been used since 1858 and takes into account the span between the oarlocks as well as the desired leverage ratio.

Once you have the correct oar length, you can choose the best blade style for your boat and rowing style. The two basic blade configurations are flat blades and spoon blades, with several variations available for each type. Spoon blade oars are approximately 20% more efficient than flat blade oars, but this efficiency is only advantageous if the hull configuration of the boat complements it. Boats with rounded bottoms and fine entries, such as whitehalls, wherries, canoes, and some rowing and sailing dinghies, are better suited for spoon oars. On the other hand, boats with flat bottoms, such as most dories, prams, skiffs, and aluminum fishing boats, generally perform equally well with either flat or spoon blades.

Other factors to consider when choosing an oar blade type include the oar length and the hull shape of your boat. Additionally, if you have multiple rowing stations in your boat, you may need to use different length oars for each station or compromise with a length that works adequately for both.

By selecting the right oar length and blade style for your boat and rowing style, you can significantly enhance your rowing experience.

Oar composition: traditionally wooden, modern oars are made from synthetic materials like carbon fibre

Oar composition has evolved from traditional wooden oars to modern oars made from synthetic materials like carbon fibre.

Wooden oars have been used for thousands of years, dating back to the early Neolithic period. They are typically made from wood such as canoe-shaped pottery and have a long shaft or loom with a flat blade on one end. The form of a traditional oar is a long shaft with a flat blade on one end and a handle on the other. The handle is usually made of wood or other materials like rubber, cellular foam, suede, or wood veneer grips over glass fibre. The blade is the wider part that dips into the water, providing propulsion.

Modern oars, on the other hand, are made from synthetic materials, with carbon fibre being the most common. The use of these materials has significantly reduced the weight of oars, making them more efficient and easier to manoeuvre. The most common shape of modern oars is the "cleaver" or "hatchet", which is used almost universally. Cleaver blades are asymmetrical, with a rectangular shape resembling a meat cleaver. This design maximises the surface area of the blade in contact with the water while minimising drag.

The evolution of oar composition from traditional wood to modern synthetic materials has improved efficiency, reduced weight, and enhanced performance in rowing and watercraft propulsion.

Oar structure: the basic structure includes a flat blade, shaft/loom, and handle/grip

Oars are used to propel boats and have been used for water-borne propulsion for thousands of years. The basic structure of an oar includes a flat blade, a shaft/loom, and a handle/grip.

The flat blade is at one end of the oar and is the part that dips into the water. The blade is wider than the rest of the oar and is thicker in the middle and thinner along the outside edges to provide strength and stiffness. The blade is also sometimes referred to as a "spoon" or "scoop".

The shaft, or loom, is the long middle portion of the oar that connects the blade to the handle. The shaft can be round, square, or octagonal in shape, and its length can vary depending on the type of boat and the rower's preferences.

The handle, or grip, is the part of the oar that the rower holds while rowing. It is usually located about 150mm from the end of the oar and may have a material sleeve or an ovoid shape carved to fit the hands. The handle is longer for sweep blades, which are used with two hands, and shorter for sculls, which are used with one hand.

In addition to these basic parts, oars also have a "collar" or "button", often made of leather, located near the blade. This piece stops the oar from slipping past the rowlock or oarlock, which is the pivot point that connects the oar to the boat.

Oars come in various sizes and shapes, depending on their intended use and the type of boat they will be used with. They can be made from wood or modern synthetic materials such as carbon fibre.

Oar leverage: the oar acts as a lever, with the oarlock as the fulcrum, to propel the boat forward

Oar leverage is a crucial concept in rowing, and it involves understanding the oar as a lever with the oarlock serving as the fulcrum to propel the boat forward. This principle is fundamental to the efficient and effective movement of a boat through the water.

The oar acts as a Class I lever from the rower's perspective. When the oar is fixed in the oarlock, the rower pulls on the handle, causing the blade to move in the opposite direction and propel the boat forward. The blade is positioned further from the oarlock than the rower's hands, allowing the force of a short rowing motion to be transformed into a smaller force over a greater distance. This mechanical advantage of the oar depends on the length of the oar from the oarlock to the blade compared to the length from the oarlock to the rower's hands. The longer the oar extends beyond the oarlock, the more distance each stroke will cover but also the more difficult it becomes to row.

From the perspective of an observer on the shore, the oar is a Class II lever, with the blade acting as the fulcrum when planted in the water. As the rower pulls on the handle, the boat moves along with them. This "Class II" perspective is particularly important in competitive rowing, where effective rowers learn to lever the boat past the end of the blade rather than pulling the blade through the water.

The choice of oar length and the resulting leverage play a significant role in determining the rowing experience. The ideal oar length will provide a 7:18 leverage ratio, with 7/25 of the oar's length inboard of the oarlocks and 18/25 of the oar's length outboard. This ratio ensures that the rower's hands are close together, approximately 1 to 3 inches apart, and pulling directly towards their abdomen.

Additionally, the positioning of the oarlocks on the boat is crucial. A general rule of thumb is to measure a 14-inch diagonal distance from the aft side of the seat at the hull to the centerline of the oarlock. This measurement takes into account the depth of the seat from the rail, contributing to a more comfortable rowing posture.

In conclusion, understanding oar leverage and the role of the oarlock as a fulcrum is essential for optimizing the propulsion of a boat. By selecting the appropriate oar length and positioning the oarlocks correctly, rowers can maximize their efficiency and minimize fatigue during their journey on the water.

Oar maintenance: proper care and maintenance of oars include understanding their anatomy and repair techniques

Oar maintenance is an important aspect of boat ownership, and proper care and maintenance of oars include understanding their anatomy and repair techniques.

Anatomy of an Oar

Oars are composed of several parts, each serving a specific function:

• Handle or Grip: The part of the oar that you hold onto while rowing.
• Loom: Extends from the grip to the neck and can vary in shape, including round, square, octagonal, or elliptical.
• Neck: The narrow portion of the oar between the loom and the blade.
• Blade: The widest part of the oar that dips into the water, providing propulsion. Blades can be straight or spoon-shaped, with the latter offering more efficient rowing.

Maintenance and Repair Techniques

• Routine Inspection and Cleaning: Regularly examine the oars for any damage, paying close attention to the blades, shafts, sleeves, and collars. Clean the grips to maintain a firm and comfortable hold. If rowing in saltwater, be sure to rinse the oars with freshwater after each use, focusing on the sleeves, collars, and oarlocks to prevent corrosion.
• Prevent Splinters: Avoid using the oar blades to push off from the dock, as this can cause splinters and damage. Always approach docks with the blade tips raised to prevent splintering from loose nails or rough surfaces.
• Avoid Overloading: Do not row at full power unless everyone in the boat is rowing synchronously. Overloading the oars can exceed their design strength and lead to damage or breakage.
• Collision Inspection: If your oars are involved in a collision, carefully inspect them for signs of damage before continuing to use them.
• Water Damage: Listen for water sloshing inside the oars, which indicates a leak. Drain the water and identify the source of the leak to prevent further damage.
• Disinfecting: Disinfecting the handles is crucial, especially if the oars are used by multiple people, to maintain hygiene and prevent the spread of germs.
• Sand and Varnish: For wooden oars, use sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots or finish chips. Apply a finish like spar urethane or spar varnish to protect the wood from water and UV damage.
• Repair Cracks: If you find cracks, especially in the blade tips, repair them promptly. Drill a hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from spreading, and then drill a series of paired holes on either side of the crack. Sew the holes with heavy twine and secure with a square knot.
• Manufacturer Recommendations: Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for specific maintenance and repair guidelines. They are the experts and can provide detailed advice for your particular oar model.

Frequently asked questions