Boat Shoes: Japan's Trendy Footwear Fad

Boat shoes are making a comeback, with brands like Miu Miu, Bally, and Sperry leading the trend. But are boat shoes trendy in Japan? Japan is known for its fashion-forward footwear, with a blend of traditional craftsmanship and innovative design. While there is no clear indication of whether boat shoes are specifically trendy in Japan, the country has a rich history of performance footwear, and streetwear is hugely popular. With the rise of streetwear and the influence of fashion hubs like Tokyo, it is likely that boat shoes could be trendy in Japan, especially with the right styling and collaborations with popular brands.

Boat shoes in Japan: trendy or not?

Boat shoes are making a comeback, with several fashion brands featuring them in their 2024 collections. But are they trendy in Japan?

Boat shoes, or "deck shoes", were invented in the 1930s by Paul Sperry, who created a non-slip shoe with rubber soles to be worn on boat decks. They gained popularity in the 60s, 70s, and 80s, particularly among the upper class and sailors, and later became the official shoe of the U.S. Navy. After World War II, boat shoes spread throughout Europe, becoming a symbol of the "preppy" look. This style, characterised by trousers, polo shirts, sweaters, moccasins, and boat shoes, was popular among students of private Ivy League schools.

In recent years, there has been a resurgence of the boat shoe trend, with fashion houses like Miu Miu, Bally, and Prada featuring them on their runways. This time around, boat shoes are being styled differently, embracing a loose, messy, and undone aesthetic that feels more relatable and effortlessly stylish. The new designs also target a wider range of consumers, with Miu Miu's boat shoes appealing to young women and Bally's attracting office workers.

While there doesn't appear to be specific information about the trendiness of boat shoes in Japan, it can be assumed that they are likely to follow similar fashion trends as the rest of the world. Japan is known for its own unique and influential streetwear culture, with Tokyo being a fashion hub. With the boat shoe trend taking off globally and the country's rich fashion history, it is probable that boat shoes could be considered trendy in Japan as well.

Overall, boat shoes have re-emerged as a fashionable and versatile option for men and women, offering a touch of formality and a twist to classic sneakers. With their practical and stylish appeal, boat shoes are likely to continue as a wardrobe staple for seasons to come, both in Japan and worldwide.

The history of boat shoes

Boat shoes, also known as deck shoes or top-siders, are typically made of canvas or leather with non-marking rubber soles designed for use on boats. They are traditionally worn without socks and are popular among both men and women. While they are now considered a fashion item, boat shoes were originally invented to solve a practical problem.

The Invention of Boat Shoes

The story of boat shoes begins with an American sailor and boating enthusiast called Paul Sperry. In the early 1930s, Sperry noticed that his leather shoes would slip while he was on the deck of a ship. However, his dog, a cocker spaniel named Prince, had no trouble running across ice. Upon closer inspection, Sperry noticed tiny grooves in the dog's paws, which gave him natural traction on slippery surfaces.

The First Boat Shoes

Inspired by his dog's sure-footedness, Sperry decided to cut grooves, or "siping", into the soles of his shoes. This innovation allowed the shoes to gain a better grip on wet surfaces. In 1935, Sperry introduced the "Top-Sider" shoe with mid-to-dark-brown leather uppers and a white rubber sole, cut in a trademark herringbone pattern. These shoes soon gained popularity among sailors and boaters, and in 1939, the U.S. Navy began manufacturing Top-Siders for its sailors.

Boat Shoes Go Mainstream

After their initial success, Sperry sold his shoe company to the U.S. Rubber Company, which began marketing Sperry Top-Siders across America. In 1979, the company changed hands again, this time to Stride Rite. Around the same time, Timberland introduced casual boat shoes with white stitches and lug soles, proving that boat shoes could be worn off the boat as well.

The Rise of Boat Shoes as a Fashion Item

It wasn't until the 1980s however, that boat shoes truly became a fashion trend. This was largely due to their inclusion in "The Official Preppy Handbook", a book that identified the boat shoe as an essential part of preppy style. The preppy look, characterised by trousers, polo shirts, sweaters, and of course, boat shoes, was all the rage in the 1980s. Boat shoes were now seen as a status symbol, as boat ownership was associated with wealth.

Today, boat shoes continue to be a popular fashion item, with brands like Miu Miu and Bally offering their own takes on the classic style. While some consider them a timeless wardrobe staple, others view them as a fashion misstep. Regardless, boat shoes have certainly made their mark on fashion and continue to be a popular choice for those seeking a comfortable and stylish option.

Boat shoes in Japanese streetwear

Boat shoes have been a popular footwear choice in Japan, with the country boasting its own well-known brands and streetwear trends. While boat shoes may have originated from the West, they have certainly made their mark in Japanese fashion, especially in the streetwear scene. Here is an exploration of boat shoes in Japanese streetwear and their evolution as a trendy footwear choice.

The boat shoe, a classic and timeless wardrobe staple, has been reimagined by designers and has found a new wave of popularity in Japanese streetwear. During recent Fashion Weeks, boat shoes have reappeared on the catwalk, showcasing their versatility and appeal to a wide range of audiences. Miuccia Prada's Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024 collection presented in Paris is a notable example of this resurgence. Prada successfully made boat shoes trendy and appealing to young women, combining them with outfits that exude a preppy casual look. This trend aligns with the rise of the "quiet luxury" and "preppy" style, characterised by polo shirts, trousers, and sweaters—an aesthetic associated with private Ivy League students.

Boat shoes have a long history, dating back to the invention of the first boat shoe by Paul Sperry in the 1930s. Known as "deck shoes," they featured rubber soles to prevent sailors from slipping on ship decks. They quickly gained popularity among the upper class and sailors, eventually becoming the official boots of the U.S. Navy. In the 1980s, boat shoes reached their peak success, becoming a classic choice for men's footwear. Timberland played a significant role in this trend by introducing casual boat shoes with white stitches and lug soles, proving that boat shoes could be worn beyond the boat deck.

Today, boat shoes continue to be a prominent feature in the Men's collection each season, with brands altering their shapes to be more trendy and elegant. Miu Miu, for instance, decorated their boat shoes with an embossed logo or intentionally bleached leather to create a vintage vibe. Bally, on the other hand, designed boat shoes with a unique front nose shaped like a long, delicate curve, adding a touch of femininity. Loewe's creative director, Jonathan Anderson, also boosted the trend by posting a photo of a boat shoe with a wide, round front nose and a flat design on his Instagram account. This blend of high-end fashion and streetwear influence has brought boat shoes back into the spotlight.

Boat shoes offer a touch of formality and a unique twist to traditional sneakers. They provide an active and casual aesthetic, making them versatile for various occasions. Whether styled with socks or worn bare feet, boat shoes can elevate an outfit while maintaining comfort. This versatility is particularly appealing to streetwear enthusiasts, who often prioritise functionality and individual expression in their fashion choices.

In conclusion, boat shoes have become a trendy choice in Japanese streetwear, with designers and fashion houses continually reimagining and innovating this classic footwear style. Boat shoes offer a blend of functionality and style, making them a versatile and appealing choice for fashion-conscious individuals in Japan and beyond.

Are boat shoes comfortable?

Boat shoes are designed for boaters and sailors who need a shoe that will prevent them from slipping on boat decks. They are typically made with a practical non-slip rubber sole and a unique hand-sewn upper design.

The comfort of boat shoes depends on the brand and the individual wearer's preferences. Some people find boat shoes to be comfortable, stating that they are easy to put on and off, feel like slippers, and provide good support for their feet. Others have criticised the comfort of boat shoes, particularly those made by the brand Sperry, which some reviewers claim have declined in quality over the years. One reviewer claims that the insoles of Sperry boat shoes are too thin, and recommends buying Dr. Scholl's inserts for added comfort. Another issue raised by reviewers is the hardening of the soles over time, which can make the shoes dangerous.

Boat shoes are typically designed to be worn without socks, which some people find more comfortable, especially in hot weather. However, this can also lead to issues with foot odour.

Overall, while some people find boat shoes comfortable, the comfort level may vary depending on the brand and the individual wearer's needs and preferences.

Where to buy boat shoes in Japan

Boat shoes have been making waves in the fashion industry, with brands like Miu Miu, Bally, and Sperry leading the trend. In Japan, you can find a variety of boat shoes at different price points and styles to suit your needs. Here are some places to consider when looking to buy boat shoes in Japan:

Department Stores and Shoe Chains

Japan has several large shoe shop chains that offer a wide range of brands and styles. These stores are easily accessible and can be found in many regions across the country.

• ASBee: This chain offers a variety of expensive and well-known brands, such as Nike, Adidas, and Converse. They also carry other types of shoes, including running shoes.
• CHIYODA HAKI-GOKOCHI: With locations across Tokyo, Ikebukuro, Shin-Koshigaya, Urayasu, and Nagoya, this chain caters to travelling business professionals. They offer fashion-forward styles and household names like Nike, Skechers, Cedar Crest, and Hydro-Tech.
• Tokyo Shoes Retailing Center: Managed by Chiyoda Co., Ltd., this chain focuses on providing the best deals and value for customers. In addition to in-house brands, they stock shoes from Nike, New Balance, and Adidas.
• Ikedaya Shoes: Located in Ueno, this small shoe shop has one of the biggest sales floors in Tokyo, Japan. They offer premium brands, including sneakers, business shoes, and imports from other countries, such as Doc Martins, Nike, Adidas, New Balance, and K-Swiss.

Outlet Stores

If you're looking for a bargain, outlet stores in Japan offer branded shoes at discounted prices.

• ABC-MART Outlet Gotanda TOC: This outlet store offers a range of shoes, including loafers, running shoes, and professional shoes, at discounted prices.
• ORiental TRaffic Outlet Shimokitazawa South Exit: This women's shoe shop offers a wide selection of premium shoes at up to 50% off. They also provide coupons if you trade in an old pair of their shoes.

Online Shopping

If you prefer the convenience of online shopping, you can explore both Japanese and international websites that offer free international shipping to Japan. This option allows you to browse a diverse range of shoe brands and styles from the comfort of your home.

When buying boat shoes in Japan, it's important to consider the sizing differences between English and Japanese shoe sizes. Japanese shoe sizes can be quite different, so having a size chart or trying on the shoes in-store can be helpful. Additionally, some traditional Japanese footwear, such as Geta, Zori, and Setta, require a smaller size than usual, with an overhang of about 1.5-2 cm of your heel at the back of the shoe.

Frequently asked questions